Piscora
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Yunnanilus longibulla

Yunnanilus longibulla

AI-generated illustration of Yunnanilus longibulla
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Yunnanilus longibulla exhibits a slender body with a pale yellowish hue and distinct dark spots along its flanks.

Freshwater

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About the Yunnanilus longibulla

Tiny stone loach from Yunnan’s Lake Chenghai with a neat party trick - that long swim bladder helps it hover and make quick dashes along the bottom. Think cool, very hard, alkaline water and lots of sand and pebbles to nosh through. It is rarely seen in the trade, so plan for a careful, species-focused setup.

Quick Facts

Size

4 cm

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Advanced

Min Tank Size

20 gallons

Lifespan

3-5 years

Origin

East Asia

Diet

Micro-predator - sinking micro-pellets, frozen/live micro foods

Water Parameters

Temperature

15-22°C

pH

7.8-9.6

Hardness

8-20 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Give them a long, shallow tank with fine sand, smooth stones, wood, and tons of hides; a 30-inch footprint beats tall tanks. Tight lid - they climb and jump.
  • Run good flow and high oxygen with a spray bar or small river setup. Keep temp 64-72 F (18-22 C); above 75 F (24 C) they get stressed and prone to infections.
  • They do best in slightly soft to moderate water (GH 4-12, KH 2-6, pH 6.8-7.6). Keep organics low and TDS steady with regular small water changes, not big swings.
  • They are micro-predators, so feed tiny sinking foods and live/frozen stuff like daphnia, baby brine, bloodworms, and blackworms. Two or three small meals work better than one big dump, and you can wean them onto quality nano pellets.
  • Keep them in a group of 8+ so they settle and color up. Break up sightlines with wood and rocks so the bold fish do not pin the shy ones.
  • Tankmates should be calm, cool-tolerant midwater fish like white clouds, small rasboras, or ricefish. Skip barbs, cichlids, and pushy bottom dwellers like Schistura or larger Botia that will outcompete them.
  • Breeding happens in crevices under stones and leaf litter, and adults will eat eggs. A slight cool-water change and a bump in flow can trigger it, but pull the parents or use marbles/leaf litter if you want any fry.
  • Most arrive wild-caught and can be skinny or wormy, so quarantine for 4+ weeks and deworm if needed. Watch for wasting, flashing, or frayed barbels from rough substrate or dirty sand.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • White cloud mountain minnows - cool-water, easygoing midwater schoolers that will not pester sand-sifting Yunnanilus
  • Ricefish (medaka) - calm top dwellers, fine in cooler temps and happy to ignore bottom loaches
  • Celestial pearl danios - gentle nano fish that hang mid-water and will not outcompete them if you feed small sinking foods
  • Peppered Corydoras (C. paleatus) - peaceful bottom buddies that like the same cooler range on soft sand
  • Hillstream loaches (Sewellia/Gastromyzon) - similar flow and temp needs, graze rocks and keep to themselves
  • Shy micro rasboras like Microrasbora erythromicron - small, peaceful, and not pushy at feeding time

Avoid

  • Fin-nippy or hyper fish like tiger barbs or serpae tetras - they will stress and harass these little loaches
  • Big or predatory fish (larger cichlids, larger gouramis, arowana) - anything that can mouth them is a no-go
  • Territorial bottom bullies like yoyo or zebra loaches and red-tail black sharks - they will dominate the floor space
  • Goldfish - cool water match, but too boisterous and messy, and they will outcompete or swallow small loaches

Where they come from

Yunnanilus longibulla is a little stone loach from Yunnan, China. Think clear, cool, spring-fed creeks and lake margins with sandy bottoms, leaf litter, and scattered pebbles. They spend their time nosing through fine substrate for tiny critters. A lot of populations are very local, which is part of why they can be touchy in home tanks.

They are sensitive wild fish more often than not. Expect them to arrive skinny and shy, and give them a quiet, mature tank to settle into.

Setting up their tank

These guys do best in a long, low tank with gentle flow and tons of soft substrate to sift. They are advanced mostly because they hate unstable water and rough handling.

  • Tank size: a 20-long (75 L) is the minimum for a small group, 30 inches of floor space is nicer
  • Substrate: fine sand (sugar-grain size). Add a sprinkle of smooth pebbles and leaf litter
  • Filtration: sponge filter + gentle spray bar or pre-filtered HOB. High oxygen, not blasting current
  • Temperature: 18-22 C (64-72 F). Briefly up to 23-24 C is ok if oxygen is high
  • pH and hardness: roughly neutral to slightly alkaline, pH 6.8-7.8, 3-12 dGH
  • Lighting: subdued. Floating plants or shaded areas help them relax
  • Lid: tight-fitting. They are sneaky climbers and jumpers

Set up the scape with line-of-sight breaks: rounded stones, wood, and clumps of java moss or Cryptocoryne. I like a couple of leaf piles (oak or catappa) because they hold microfauna the fish pick at.

Aim your return flow across the surface for gas exchange. If summer gets hot, a clip-on fan and extra aeration keep them happy.

Skip gravel. Even small, sharp gravel will chew up their barbels and make feeding harder.

Keep the tank mature. Do weekly 20-30% water changes and vacuum lightly so you do not collapse the micro-life in the sand. Pre-filter sponges on intakes save a lot of tiny lives (and keep the loaches from exploring the filter).

What to feed them

They are micro-predators. Mine woke up for live and frozen foods and took ages to accept anything dry.

  • Live/frozen: baby brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, bloodworms (chopped if large), blackworms
  • Prepared: high-quality sinking micro-pellets, crushed shrimp pellets, Repashy gel (Community or Soilent Green) spread thin and cooled
  • Timing: feed smaller portions 2-3x per day at dusk or with lights dimmed

Target feeding helps. I use a pipette to lay a thin line of food along the sand so every fish finds some. Mix a few micro-pellets into the live food once they are eating strongly to train them onto prepared options.

In busy community tanks they get outcompeted. Watch body condition. A healthy Yunnanilus has a smooth, slightly rounded belly after meals. Sunken bellies mean they are losing the food race.

How they behave and who they get along with

Quiet, bottom-focused, and much bolder in a group. Keep 8 or more. They shuffle through sand together and do little sprints between cover. Most activity happens in low light.

  • Good tankmates: small, calm midwater fish that like cooler water - white clouds, small rasboras (chili are ok if temps are moderate), ricefish, celestial pearl danios
  • Also fine: small snails, larger shrimp species (they may eat shrimplets)
  • Avoid: big or boisterous fish, fast danios that hoover food, cichlids, crayfish, or anything that needs strong river flow

If they hide all day, add more cover and dim the lights. Once they feel unseen, they come out a lot more.

Breeding tips

They scatter eggs in fine substrate and plants. No parental care. It is doable, but you have to protect the eggs.

  • Condition adults with lots of live/frozen food for 2-3 weeks
  • Set up a separate 10-15 gallon with sand, a thick moss mat, and a layer of marbles or mesh so eggs fall out of reach
  • Cool, fresh water changes can trigger spawning. Slight dip to 18-20 C followed by steady feeding worked for me
  • Remove adults after 2-3 days of chasing and resting cycles
  • Eggs hatch in ~2-3 days at 20-22 C. Fry need infusoria/green water first, then microworms and baby brine as they size up

Females get noticeably fuller. Males stay slimmer and may do quick side-by-side quivers over the sand before a spawn.

Common problems to watch for

  • Heat and low oxygen: above 24 C they start stressing. Add surface agitation and keep temps down
  • Barbel wear: rough or dirty substrate will erode barbels. Use fine sand and keep it clean but not sterile
  • Internal parasites: wild fish often arrive with worms. Quarantine and consider a deworming regimen (e.g., praziquantel/levamisole) before they go into the display
  • Refusing dry foods: mix micro-pellets into live food and be patient. Target feed
  • Jumping: any gap is an exit. Cover cables and tiny openings
  • Medication sensitivity: avoid copper- and formalin-heavy treatments. Use gentler options and lots of aeration if you must medicate

Do not dump new arrivals straight into a pristine display. Quarantine for 3-4 weeks. Most losses happen in the first two due to parasites and starvation, and you want to catch that early.

If you keep the water cool and oxygen-rich, use sand, and make sure they are actually getting food, Yunnanilus longibulla is a really rewarding oddball. They will never be the flashiest fish in the room, but watching a relaxed group sift and explore is great.

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