Piscora
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Marsh Yunnan loach

Yunnanilus paludosus

AI-generated illustration of Marsh Yunnan loach
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The Marsh Yunnan loach showcases a slender body with a distinctive pattern of dark spots on a light brown background.

Freshwater

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About the Marsh Yunnan loach

A neat little stone loach from marshes in Yunnan, China, it tops out around 3 inches and spends its time nosing through plants and leaf litter for tiny critters. It is a coolwater, subtropical fish from calm vegetated marshes rather than a high-flow hillstream, so it appreciates gentle flow, clean water, and a soft sandy bottom. Keep a small group and it will settle in nicely once it feels safe.

Quick Facts

Size

8 cm SL

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

20 gallons

Lifespan

3-5 years

Origin

East Asia

Diet

Micropredator - small live or frozen foods (daphnia, bloodworms), will accept quality sinking micro-pellets

Water Parameters

Temperature

18-24°C

pH

6.8-7.8

Hardness

5-15 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 18-24°C in a 20 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give them a 20-gallon long or bigger and keep 6-10 together; they hide less in a group and show natural foraging.
  • Use fine sand with leaf litter, smooth pebbles, and dense plants; they sift sand and will shred their barbels on gravel.
  • Run gentle flow with good surface agitation and a tight lid; sponge-filter the intakes so they do not wedge themselves.
  • Keep 18-23 C (64-73 F), pH 6.4-7.4, and soft to mid hardness (2-8 dGH); keep nitrates under 20 ppm and avoid heat over 25 C (77 F) for long stretches.
  • Feed small sinking foods twice daily: micro pellets, frozen cyclops/daphnia, baby brine, and chopped bloodworm; drop food in multiple spots so shy fish get some.
  • Tankmates: quiet nanos like CPDs, small rasboras, ricefish, and pygmy Corys; skip barbs, large danios, cichlids, crayfish, and any fin nippers.
  • They are scatter spawners; a cool 10-20% water change and heavy feeding can trigger eggs in leaf litter or a mesh, then pull adults so they do not eat them.
  • Keep the sand clean with light vacs and gentle stirring to prevent barbel rot. Loaches dislike copper and harsh meds, so go easy on dosing and boost aeration when treating.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Chill nano schoolers like chili rasboras, ember tetras, or green neons - calm midwater that will not steal all the food
  • White cloud mountain minnows or ricefish - same cooler end temps, active but not pushy if you give cover
  • Otocinclus - gentle algae grazers that ignore them and will not crowd the bottom
  • Pygmy Corydoras (pygmaeus, habrosus, hastatus) - peaceful bottom buddies on fine sand, no elbowing at meal time
  • Honey or sparkling gourami - mellow surface fish for quiet, low-flow setups
  • Adult neocaridina/caridina shrimp and snails - generally fine together, but the loaches will pick off baby shrimp

Avoid

  • Boisterous or big loaches like yoyo, clown, or skunk loaches - they bulldoze the bottom and outcompete timid Yunnanilus
  • Nippy schoolers like tiger barbs, serpae tetras, or very zippy danios - too rowdy and stressy for shy marsh loaches
  • Territorial bottom cichlids (apistos, rams, kribs) - share the same floor space and will harass them, especially when breeding
  • Large predators or vacuum feeders (big cichlids, goldfish, big catfish) - risk of getting eaten or starved out at feeding time

Where they come from

Marsh Yunnan loaches are little bottom-huggers from Yunnan, China. Think quiet marshes and backwaters with soft sand, leaf litter, and clumps of grasses. The water is usually cool to mild, not roaring like a hillstream, and the bottom is where all the action is.

Setting up their tank

Give them floor space over height. A 20-gallon long (or any 24-30 inch footprint) works well for a small group. They spend their time on the substrate, sifting and darting under cover.

  • Substrate: fine sand, sugar-grain size. They like to nose into it.
  • Cover: driftwood roots, smooth stones, leaf litter, and clumps of hardy plants or grasses.
  • Flow: gentle to moderate. You want clean, well-oxygenated water without blasting them around.
  • Filtration: a sponge or canister with a prefilter on the intake so nobody gets stuck.
  • Lid: tight-fitting. They can and will find gaps.

Leaf litter (oak, beech, or Indian almond leaves) makes them bolder and gives microfauna for grazing. Replace as it breaks down.

Keep the water on the cooler side of tropical. They handle room-temperature tanks well as long as it is stable and clean.

  • Temperature: 18-24 C (64-75 F)
  • pH: roughly 6.2-7.4
  • Hardness: soft to mid (2-10 dGH)
  • Maintenance: small weekly changes and regular substrate siphoning around, not into, their hidey-holes

Avoid gravel or sharp sand. These loaches rub their faces and barbels into the substrate. Rough media leads to frayed barbels and infections.

What to feed them

They are micro-predators and pick at tiny critters. Mine woke up for anything that wiggled and eventually learned pellets, but it took patience.

  • Live or frozen: baby brine shrimp, daphnia, cyclops, bloodworms (chopped if large), blackworms
  • Dry: quality sinking micro-pellets, crushed wafers, bug-based granules
  • Occasional veggie nibble: crushed spirulina wafer for variety

Target-feed with a turkey baster or pipette so food actually reaches the bottom near their hideouts. Two small meals beat one big dump of food.

If they ignore dry food, pre-soak pellets for a minute and mix with a little thawed frozen food. They usually catch on within a week or two.

How they behave and who they get along with

Shy at first, then busy little sand-sifters once they feel safe. They like a group; I would do 6+ so they are not skittish. Expect more evening activity.

  • Good tankmates: white cloud mountain minnows, small danios, ricefish, peaceful rasboras, small pencilfish, pygmy Corydoras (if temps overlap), shrimp (adults), and snails.
  • Avoid: big or boisterous fish, nippy barbs, anything that hogs the bottom, and strong river setups meant for hillstream species.
  • They will snack on very tiny shrimp or shrimplets. If you want a shrimp colony, add plenty of moss and hides.

Breeding tips

These are classic scatterers. I have not had a full raise-up in a display, but I have seen eggs show up in leaf piles after a cool water change.

  • Set up a separate 10-15 gallon with fine sand, lots of leaf litter, and fine plants or yarn mops.
  • Condition adults with live and frozen foods for 2-3 weeks.
  • Do a slightly cooler water change (2-3 C drop) in the evening and dim the lights.
  • Adults will scatter eggs among leaves and sand. Pull parents after a day or use marbles/mesh so eggs fall out of reach.
  • Eggs hatch in 2-3 days depending on temp. Start fry on infusoria or green-water, then microworms and newly hatched brine shrimp.
  • Gentle sponge filtration only. Keep it clean and calm.

Females look a bit rounder when ready. Males tend to be slimmer and a touch more active during courtship.

Common problems to watch for

  • Barbel damage from rough substrate or dirty sand. Switch to fine sand and improve cleaning rhythm.
  • Starving in community tanks because they are shy feeders. Target-feed and add more cover.
  • Import stress: ich and flukes show up often. Quarantine new fish for 3-4 weeks.
  • Medication sensitivity: many loaches react badly to copper, formalin, and full-dose dyes.
  • Overheating in summer. Above mid-70s F for long stretches can stress them. Use fans or float ice bottles if needed.
  • Getting stuck: they will explore. Use a prefilter sponge on intakes and close cable gaps in the lid.

Dose meds gently with loaches. Start at half-dose, add extra aeration, and watch closely. If you are unsure, ask other keepers about loach-safe treatments.

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