Chikame daruma-garei

Where they come from

Chikame daruma-garei (Engyprosopon multisquama) is one of those little flatfish that looks like it was designed by a committee. Big eyes, tiny body, and a habit of vanishing into the sand the second the lights come on. They show up in Japanese waters and nearby parts of the western Pacific, usually on sandy or mixed sand-rubble bottoms where they can half-bury and ambush food.

Most of the ones we see in the hobby are wild-caught, and they act like it: they want calm, a soft bottom, and food that moves.

Setting up their tank

Think "flatfish tank" first, not "reef tank." The whole game is giving them a safe place to bury and a layout that does not force them to compete at the water surface.

• Tank size: I would start at 20-30 gallons for one, bigger if you want tankmates. They use floor space more than height.
• Substrate: fine sand. Not crushed coral, not sharp aragonite chunks. They grind their belly and fins into it all day.
• Flow: moderate overall, but give them a calm zone. If the whole bottom is a sandstorm, they stay stressed and stop feeding.
• Filtration: strong biofiltration and a skimmer helps. These guys eat meaty foods and that gets messy fast.
• Lighting: they do not need bright reef lighting. Dimmer or shaded areas make them bolder.
• Hiding: low rockwork and caves are fine, but leave open sand. They want to park and watch.

Stable marine parameters matter more than chasing a specific number. Keep salinity steady (around 1.025 is a good target), keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, and do not let nitrate climb. They are not forgiving of "new tank syndrome," so this is a fish for a mature system.

What to feed them

This is where most people lose them. Many individuals will ignore pellets and flakes forever. Mine only really locked in once I treated it like a little ambush predator and fed accordingly.

• Best starters: live foods like enriched live brine (for very small specimens), live blackworms (if you can do them safely in marine), or small live shrimp/ghost shrimp acclimated slowly to salt.
• Reliable frozen foods once trained: mysis, chopped shrimp, chopped clam, finely cut squid, and small pieces of marine fish.
• Feeding method: use feeding tongs or a turkey baster and drop food right in front of their face on the sand. They often will not chase food in the water column.
• Schedule: small portions 1-2 times a day at first, then you can usually go to once daily once they are settled and holding weight.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are calm, sneaky, and kind of hilarious to watch once you know what you are looking for. Most of the day you will see eyes and a slight outline in the sand. Then, during feeding, the "sand" suddenly becomes a fish.

The big rule: if it fits in their mouth, it is food. And their mouth opens wider than you think.

• Good tankmates: peaceful fish that do not bulldoze the substrate - small to medium gobies that stay in their lane, calm wrasses (not sand-diving torpedoes), cardinals, and gentle reef-safe types that are not hyper-competitive at feeding time.
• Avoid: aggressive feeders (big damsels, triggers), boisterous sand sifters that keep the bottom churned, and anything tiny enough to be swallowed (nano gobies, small shrimp, small crabs).
• Inverts: I would not trust them with ornamental shrimp long-term. You might get away with big cleaner shrimp, but it is still a gamble.

Breeding tips

Breeding this species in home aquariums is basically "nice dream" territory. Flatfish spawning often involves seasonal cues, larger systems, and pelagic larvae that are extremely difficult to raise. I have never seen a credible hobbyist report of captive-bred Engyprosopon multisquama.

If you ever try anyway, the best you can do is set yourself up for observation: keep a group in a big, stable tank, feed heavy with varied marine foods, and keep notes on temperature and day length changes. But go into it expecting zero babies, and enjoy them for what they are.

Common problems to watch for

• Refusing food: the number one issue. Usually stress, too much flow on the bottom, too bright, or food that is not presented correctly.
• Weight loss: look from above - a healthy fish has a fuller body. A "razor thin" look means it is starving even if it nibbles occasionally.
• Belly abrasions and infections: caused by rough substrate or being pushed around by tankmates. Keep sand fine and the bottom calm.
• Parasites (especially wild-caught): flukes and internal worms are common enough that I quarantine and observe closely. Heavy breathing, flashing, and cloudy eyes can be clues.
• Ich and velvet: they are not immune, and flatfish can crash quickly. Have a plan before you buy one (hospital tank, treatment method you are comfortable with).
• Sand ingestion problems: usually from gulping big, dirty chunks during sloppy feeding. Feed smaller pieces and keep the sandbed clean where you target feed.

These are absolutely "expert" fish mostly because of feeding and the fact that they do not broadcast their problems until they are already in trouble. If you can get one eating reliably in the first two weeks and keep the bottom of the tank peaceful, you are most of the way there.