
Maculate panray
Zanobatus maculatus
About the Maculate panray
Zanobatus maculatus is a small coastal panray from the Gulf of Guinea with a blotchy, spotted top-side pattern and a bottom that can look pale/creamy to orange-brown. It is a demersal (bottom-living) marine ray that hangs out on sandy (and often muddy) shallows, and it is mostly a bycatch species in local fisheries rather than something you will realistically see in the aquarium trade.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
35.9 cm TL
Temperament
Peaceful
Difficulty
Expert
Min Tank Size
300 gallons
Lifespan
unknown
Origin
Eastern Central Atlantic (Gulf of Guinea, West Africa)
Diet
Carnivore/invertivore - likely benthic invertebrates; species-specific diet not well documented in hobby sources
Water Parameters
24-28°C
8-8.4
8-12 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 24-28°C in a 300 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Go way bigger than you think: a 8-10 ft footprint tank with a huge open sand flat is the difference between a calm ray and a stressed pacing mess; keep rockwork up on pillars so it cannot pin itself or scrape the disc edges.
- Run fine, sugar-sized aragonite sand 2-4 inches deep and skip crushed coral - they bury and shuffle all day and sharp grains will chew up the belly and fin margins.
- Keep salinity steady at 1.025-1.026 and temp around 76-78 F; they hate swings, so use an ATO, a heater controller, and lots of aeration because big rays burn oxygen fast.
- Ammonia and nitrite must be zero and nitrate low (shoot for under ~20 ppm) because they are heavy eaters and their waste piles up; oversized skimming and aggressive mechanical filtration save you here.
- Feed on the sand with tongs or a feeding dish: shrimp, squid, clam, mussel, and marine fish chunks, plus soaked vitamins; start with smaller daily meals then move to 3-5 solid feeds per week once it is settled.
- Avoid tankmates that steal food (big tang mobs, triggers) or bite fins (angels, puffers); best roommates are calm, non-nippy fish that will not outcompete it, and anything small enough to fit in its mouth is eventually food.
- Quarantine is tricky with rays, but still do it in a big bare-bottom tub with a thin sand tray; do not use copper meds, and be careful with formalin or any harsh treatments because rays crash fast.
- Watch for belly redness, frayed disc edges, and refusal to bury or eat - that usually means sand issues, bullying, or water quality; also cover overflows and powerheads since they love to wedge into corners.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Other peaceful rays and skates (similar size, plenty of sand, lots of floor space) - they mostly just cruise and ignore each other if everyone has room
- Bigger, mellow open-water fish like bannerfish or peaceful batfish (the calm, non-nippy kinds) - they hang midwater and dont hassle the ray on the bottom
- Large, laid-back angels (think French/gray/queen-type personalities, not the hyper-territorial ones) - usually fine as long as the ray is well-fed and the angel isnt a fin-picker
- Brushtail tangs and other generally chill tangs (yellow, kole, etc.) - good movement up top, usually leave the panray alone
- Peaceful wrasses that arent bullies (smaller Halichoeres-type) - they cruise the rockwork and sand but typically dont mess with the ray
- Reef-safe-ish cleanup like big snails and tougher urchins can coexist, but assume the ray will eat most crabs, shrimp, and small bottom critters sooner or later
Avoid
- Aggressive triggers (clown/queen/titan) and pushy puffers - they love to bite and will go after the rays fins/spiracles, plus they stress it out hard
- Big, mean groupers and snappers - not always immediate chaos, but they get bold at feeding time and can take chunks or go after the rays tail
- Nippy angels and damsels (esp. territorial ones like some pomacanthus juveniles, big damsels) - constant pecking is rough on a peaceful ray that just wants to sit in the sand
- Any sharky roommate that competes hard for food (fast, grabby feeders) - the ray can get outcompeted and start losing weight even if nobody is outright attacking it
Where they come from
Maculate panrays (Zanobatus maculatus) are a West African coastal ray. Think shallow continental shelf stuff - sandy bottoms, mixed rubble, and a lot of "buried and waiting" time. They're not reef rays cruising open water; they're bottom animals that want space and clean sand.
If you're used to "beginner" rays like some small freshwater stingrays, reset your expectations. This is a marine bottom ray that asks for serious footprint, serious filtration, and a steady hand with water quality.
Setting up their tank
Footprint matters more than gallons on the label. These rays spend their life on the bottom, doing laps and burying. A long, wide tank beats a tall one every time.
- Tank size: plan for a very large footprint system (public-aquarium scale is honestly where they make the most sense). If you can't give them long runs and turning room, skip the species.
- Substrate: fine sand, shallow to moderate depth. No crushed coral, no sharp aragonite chunks. If it scratches your hand, it'll scratch the ray.
- Rockwork: keep it minimal and locked in place. Rays will push and dig. Put rocks on the glass or on supports, then add sand around them so nothing can topple.
- Flow: moderate, not blasting the bottom. You want oxygenation and clean water without turning the sandbed into a snowstorm.
- Lighting: they don't care much. Give them shaded areas and they'll use them.
- Filtration: oversized skimming and mechanical filtration you can clean often. These animals eat meaty foods and the waste adds up fast.
Avoid powerheads and overflows the ray can pin itself against. Use guards, weirs, and intake screens. Rays are strong, curious, and not always graceful around equipment.
Water quality needs to be boring and stable. Big swings in salinity or pH hit them harder than many bony fish. Top off with freshwater religiously, and use an ATO if you can. A ray tank without an ATO is playing on hard mode.
- Salinity: keep it steady (around natural seawater).
- Temperature: stable tropical marine range.
- Ammonia and nitrite: always 0.
- Nitrate: the lower the better - you will feel it in their appetite and overall "pep" if nitrates creep up.
Plan your maintenance around the ray, not around your schedule. Frequent small water changes beat occasional big ones, and they keep the sandbed and gills happier.
What to feed them
These are meaty-food specialists. In captivity, you win by offering variety and getting them onto a predictable routine. If you only feed one thing, they either get picky or they start looking thin even if they're eating.
- Good staples: shrimp (shell-on sometimes), squid, clams/mussels, scallop, marine fish flesh.
- Great add-ons: crabs, prawn, smelt/whitebait, and other marine-based items for variety.
- Avoid: freshwater feeder fish, fatty freshwater fillets, and anything that smells "off". If you wouldn't eat it, don't feed it to a ray.
I like target feeding with tongs or a feeding stick. It keeps food out of the sand, lets you see exactly what the ray took, and reduces the chances a tankmate steals everything.
Soak foods with a quality vitamin supplement sometimes, and keep an eye on body condition. With rays, "eating" doesn't always mean "getting enough" if the diet is narrow.
Feeding frequency depends on size and temperature, but most do well with smaller, regular meals rather than huge dumps. If the ray starts cruising the glass edges constantly or acting restless, it's often either hungry or the water is sliding downhill.
How they behave and who they get along with
Maculate panrays are generally calm and deliberate. They bury, cruise, and pounce on scent trails. They're not usually aggressive, but they're absolutely predatory. If it fits in their mouth, it becomes a food item eventually.
- Best tankmates: large, peaceful to semi-peaceful marine fish that won't nip fins or pester the ray.
- Avoid: fin nippers, fast food thieves, and anything that constantly "tests" the ray (some triggers, puffers, large angels with a mean streak).
- Also avoid: small fish and bottom critters you like. Snails, crabs, and small fish often turn into snacks or get crushed.
Nipping is a big deal. Rays don't handle repeated fin edge damage well, and infections can take hold fast. If a fish is picking at the ray even a little, remove the fish, not the ray.
Give them open sand lanes. If the whole bottom is rock and coral, they spend more time stressed and less time acting natural. A ray that hides constantly or won't settle is telling you something.
Breeding tips
Breeding in home systems is uncommon, mostly because the space requirements are huge and getting a compatible pair is its own project. They are an elasmobranch, so think internal fertilization and a slow, energy-expensive reproductive cycle.
If you ever end up with a male and female and see courtship or bite marks from mating attempts, focus on giving the female extra nutrition and pristine water. That's where most "success" or "failure" happens in captivity.
If you're serious about it, you'd want a massive system, multiple hiding/settling zones, and the ability to separate animals if the male is too persistent. Most hobbyists never get to that point, and that's fine.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I see with rays trace back to three things: bad substrate, unstable water, and bullying tankmates. They look tough, but they can go downhill quietly.
- Sand scrapes and belly burns: usually from rough substrate, sharp rock edges, or constantly getting spooked into dashing.
- Refusing food: often shipping stress, poor water quality, or too much competition at feeding time.
- Rapid breathing or hanging in high flow: check oxygenation, ammonia, and temperature swings.
- Fin edge damage: usually nipping - act fast.
- Weight loss despite eating: diet too narrow, parasites (less common but possible), or chronic stress.
Copper and many "reef meds" are not ray-friendly. If you need to treat something, research ray-safe options first and be ready to use a separate system. Guessing with medications can end badly.
The best early warning sign is behavior. A settled panray has a routine: resting, burying, cruising, and responding to food. If that pattern changes, test the water, watch the tankmates, and take it seriously before it becomes a crash.
Similar Species
Other marine peaceful species you might be interested in.

Abe's eelpout
Japonolycodes abei
Japonolycodes abei is a temperate, deepwater demersal eelpout (family Zoarcidae) endemic to Japan (Kumano-nada Sea reported; other sources also report Sagami Bay and Tosa Bay). It is the only species in the genus Japonolycodes and occurs roughly 40-300 m depth, making it an uncommon/atypical aquarium species.

Banggai Cardinalfish
Pterapogon kauderni
Banggai cardinals just sort of hover like little underwater satellites, and the bold black bars with those long, polka-dotted fins look unreal under reef lighting. They're super chill most of the time, but once a pair forms you'll see real "fish drama," and the male will even mouthbrood the babies like a champ.

Ben-Tuvia's goby
Didogobius bentuvii
This is a tiny little Mediterranean goby from the Israeli coast that lives down on the bottom over muddy-sand, and it is likely a burrower. In other words, it is a blink-and-you-miss-it kind of fish - super small, demersal, and more about sneaky bottom-dweller vibes than flashy swimming.

Bigeye brotula
Glyptophidium longipes
Glyptophidium longipes is a deepwater cusk-eel (brotula) from the western Indian Ocean - a slender, eel-ish fish with oversized eyes and long ventral-fin rays. It is a bathyal slope species from a few hundred meters down, so its real-world needs (cold, dark, high-pressure habitat) make it essentially an observation-only "research" animal rather than a practical aquarium fish.

Bigeye clingfish
Kopua nuimata
Kopua nuimata is a tiny deepwater clingfish with big eyes and a neat pink-and-orange banded pattern. It lives way down on reefy slopes (roughly 160-337 m), so its "care" is mostly academic - its natural habitat is cold, dark, high-pressure water that we just do not replicate in home aquariums.

Bigfin shrimpgoby
Vanderhorstia macropteryx
This is one of those classic sand-dwelling shrimp gobies that posts up at a burrow entrance and keeps watch while its pistol shrimp roommate does the digging. In the tank its vibe is basically "little sentinel" - calm, bottom-oriented, and super fun to observe if you give it sand and a secure lid (they can jump).
More to Explore
Discover more marine species.

African conger (Japonoconger africanus)
Japonoconger africanus
This is a smallish deep-water conger eel from the eastern Atlantic (Gabon down to the Congo), and it lives way deeper than anything we normally keep at home. It is a predator that eats fish and crustaceans, and while it is a cool species on paper, it is basically not an aquarium fish in any normal sense due to its deep-water habitat and lack of established captive care info.

African red snapper
Lutjanus agennes
This is a true snapper from West Africa - a big, fast-growing predator that goes from coastal reefs to brackish lagoons and estuaries (especially as a juvenile). Super cool fish in the wild, but it gets absolutely huge and will eat smaller tankmates once it has the mouth for it, so its really more of a public-aquarium scale animal than a home-aquarium fish.

Aleutian skate
Bathyraja aleutica
This is a big, cold-water deep-slope skate from the North Pacific that cruises muddy bottoms and eats chunky benthic prey like crabs and shrimp. The really cool bit is its egg-laying skate life - it does distinct pairing (the classic skate "embrace") and drops those tough egg cases on the seafloor. Not an aquarium fish at all unless you're basically running a public-aquarium-style chilled system.

Arabian spiny eel
Notacanthus indicus
Notacanthus indicus is a deep-sea spiny eel (family Notacanthidae; not a true eel) known from the Arabian Sea on the continental slope at roughly ~960–1,046 m depth, with reported maximum length around 20 cm TL; it is a deep-water bycatch species and not established in the aquarium trade.

Arctic rockling
Gaidropsarus argentatus
This is a deepwater North Atlantic rockling (a cod relative) that hangs out on soft bottoms way down the slope. It is a cold-water, bottom-hugging predator that snoots around for crustaceans and will also take small fish when it gets the chance.

Atlantic pomfret
Brama brama
Brama brama is the Atlantic pomfret (aka Ray's bream) - a deep-bodied, open-ocean pelagic fish that cruises around in small schools and follows water temps. It is a legit big, wild marine species (not an aquarium fish) that eats other small sea critters like fish and squid, and it ranges across a huge chunk of the Atlantic plus parts of the Indian and South Pacific.
Looking for other species?
