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Dysomma fuscoventralis
Dysomma fuscoventralis is characterized by its slender body, dark brown to gray coloration, and distinctive, flattened head.
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About the none
A deep Red Sea cutthroat eel that lives way below normal diving depths, so it is very much a look-dont-keep species. Adults get to around 26 cm and likely snack on small fishes and crustaceans in the dark. If you are planning a tank, skip this one - you just cant recreate true deep-water conditions at home.
Quick Facts
Size
26 cm
Temperament
Aggressive
Difficulty
Expert
Min Tank Size
0 gallons
Lifespan
unknown
Origin
Red Sea (Western Indian Ocean)
Diet
Carnivore - small fishes and crustaceans
Water Parameters
21.6-21.8°C
7.8-8.2
350-380 dGH
Care Notes
- Give it a long, dim tank with a wide footprint and 4-6 inches of fine sand or mud for burrowing; set rock directly on the glass so burrows do not collapse the scape.
- Seal every gap in the lid and cover overflows - these eels will climb cords and find pinholes.
- Run full-strength seawater at SG 1.025-1.026, pH 8.1-8.3, nitrate under 10 ppm, and keep it cool and low light at 20-23 C with strong aeration; avoid blasting flow over the burrow.
- Feed at lights-out with tongs using squid strips, silversides, or prawn; if it refuses, start with live ghost shrimp and wean to frozen over a week or two.
- 2-3 small, dense meals per week is plenty; if it spits food or regurgitates, cut portions and lengthen the gap between feeds.
- Best kept solo or with large, calm fish that ignore it; skip crustaceans, small fish, triggers, puffers, big wrasses, and other eels.
- Watch for refusal to feed, rapid breathing, or mouth abrasions; dim the tank, check temp and oxygen, and use food-soaked praziquantel if you suspect worms while avoiding copper on scaleless eels.
- You will not breed this species in a tank - oceanic spawners with a leptocephalus larval stage.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Big tangs and rabbitfish that cruise midwater and dont sleep at the eels front door
- Large angels (Pomacanthus or Holacanthus) that are too stout to be swallowed and ignore the cave
- Fast, sturdy wrasses like Thalassoma and harlequin tusk that keep moving and dont poke into the eels cave
- Adult squirrelfish or soldierfish that are beefy enough not to fit in the mouth - go with larger species only
- Big hogfish and other Bodianus types that stick to the water column and can handle an occasional stare-down
Avoid
- Anything bite-size or crunchy - gobies, blennies, chromis, small wrasses, shrimp, and crabs - all snacks
- Slow fish with fancy fins or that perch at night - mandarins, scorpionfish, and lionfish - too easy to ambush or dangerous if swallowed
- Other eels or snake-like fish that want the same caves - they scrap and one ends up missing chunks
- Nippy bullies like triggers, big puffers, and mean dottybacks - they go for eyes and stress the eel into hiding
Where they come from
Dysomma fuscoventralis is a deepwater cutthroat eel from the Indo-West Pacific. Think outer continental shelf and upper slope, soft bottoms, dim light, and colder water than reef fish ever see. They spend most of their time buried in mud or fine sand with just the head sticking out, waiting for something edible to pass by.
These eels are rare in the hobby and often misidentified. Photos before purchase help. If yours was collected deep, plan for cooler water and very low light.
Setting up their tank
Treat this as a species tank project. Your goal is a quiet, dim, sandy burrow world with rock that's locked down and zero escape routes.
- Footprint and volume: At least a 4 ft tank (75-120 gal) with lots of floor space. Bigger is better for stable temps and oxygen.
- Substrate: 4-6 in of fine, sugar-grain aragonite. No coarse gravel. Add several lengths of PVC (1.5-2x the eel's body diameter) buried at angles as starter burrows.
- Rockwork: Place rock on the bare bottom first, then add sand around it so burrowing cannot topple structures.
- Lid and overflows: Tight, weighted lid. Cover every gap, overflow teeth, and powerhead intake with fine mesh. Eels are escape artists.
- Lighting: Keep it very dim. Red light works for observation at night.
- Temperature: Plan on cool water. A chiller is your friend. Target 18-22 C (64-72 F) unless you have proof the fish came from shallow, warmer water.
- Filtration and oxygen: Oversized skimmer, strong aeration, and vigorous surface agitation. These fish like high O2 and very clean water.
- Flow: Gentle along the bottom. Avoid blasting the sand bed.
- Water parameters: SG 1.024-1.026, pH 8.0-8.3, ammonia/nitrite 0, nitrate preferably under 20 ppm.
Powerheads and overflows are eel magnets. A single uncovered intake can be fatal. Double up on guards and mesh.
Quarantine first. A large tote or tank with a buried PVC maze and a bowl of fine sand works well. Keep it dark, feed at night, and only move the eel once it's eating consistently.
What to feed them
Wild diet is small fishes, shrimp, and worms. Most won't take pellets. Start with movement and scent, then wean to frozen.
- Starter foods: Live ghost/grass shrimp, small saltwater crabs, or live blackworms (rinsed well) can trigger a strike.
- Staples to switch to: Silversides, lancefish/sandeels, squid strips, prawn/shrimp, clam, and bits of marine fish. Use tongs and wiggle near the burrow entrance after lights out.
- Feeding rhythm: 2-3 times per week. Offer until the belly looks gently rounded, not stuffed. They regurgitate if overfed or stressed.
- Tricks: Soak food in clam juice or a drop of garlic to get interest. Start with thin strips; increase size as the eel learns the routine.
- Supplements: Rotate foods and add a marine vitamin a couple times a week. Avoid goldfish/feeder minnows (thiaminase and disease). Remove leftovers quickly.
How they behave and who they get along with
Expect a stealth ambush predator that spends 90% of the day buried. They key in on scent and movement, then shoot out, grab, and back into the burrow.
- Temperament: Shy with people, decisive with food. Anything that fits in the mouth is food.
- Tankmates: Safest plan is a species-only setup. If you must try companions, pick large, calm, midwater fish that ignore the eel and cannot be swallowed. No small fish, ornamental shrimp, or crabs.
- Other eels: Mixed results. Provide multiple burrows and line-of-sight breaks if housing more than one. Be ready to separate.
Low light and low traffic around the tank make a huge difference. These eels are much bolder in a quiet room with a dusk/dawn schedule.
Breeding tips
Not a home-aquarium project. Like other cutthroat eels, they spawn in the ocean and produce leptocephalus larvae that drift for months. There are no verified captive breedings or rearing records.
Common problems to watch for
- Refusing food: Very common early on. Go darker, try live shrimp at night, and reduce traffic. Scent frozen food and gradually replace live.
- Escapes: They climb silicone seams and push lids. Add weight to lids and block every cable gap.
- Mouth and snout abrasions: From ramming glass or coarse substrate. Use fine sand and cover reflective ends/sides for the first weeks.
- Warm-water stress: Fast breathing, restless pacing, and surface gulping. If the fish was collected deep, temperatures in the low 20s C may already be too warm. Use a chiller and boost aeration.
- Barotrauma and capture damage: Deepwater fish often arrive compromised. A long, quiet quarantine and pristine water give the best odds.
- Medication sensitivity: Like other scaleless eels, they can react badly to harsh copper or formalin levels. If treatment is needed, use eel-safe dosages and favor praziquantel or metronidazole under guidance.
- Infections/parasites: Watch for cloudy eyes, reddened mouth, or stringy white feces. Address quickly in QT with targeted meds and big water changes.
This is an expert-only animal with high loss rates in the trade, especially if taken from deep water. If you already have one, commit to cool, dim, oxygen-rich conditions and very tight lids. If you are still deciding, consider passing unless you can provide a chilled, species-only setup.
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