Piscora
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Diamond Watchman Goby

Valenciennea puellaris

This is that sand-sifting goby you'll see cruising the bottom, taking huge mouthfuls of sand and spitting it out like a little construction crew. It's awesome for keeping a sandy substrate looking clean, but it'll also redecorate-so anything sitting on the sand is gonna get buried or undermined sooner or later. Super cool personality too, especially once it picks a favorite burrow and starts "working" all day.

AI-generated illustration of Diamond Watchman Goby
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The Diamond Watchman Goby features striking blue and yellow coloration with distinctive diamond-shaped markings on its body.

Marine

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Quick Facts

Size

20 cm

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

40 gallons

Lifespan

3-5 years

Origin

Indo-Pacific

Diet

Carnivore/omnivore leaning carnivore - small meaty foods (mysis, brine, finely chopped seafood), sinking pellets; will also pick microfauna from sand

Water Parameters

Temperature

22-26°C

pH

8.1-8.4

Hardness

8-12 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 22-26°C in a 40 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give them a real sandbed (2-3 inches, fine to medium grain). They sift sand all day, so bare-bottom tanks or chunky gravel just frustrate them.
  • They'll redecorate nonstop-keep rockwork sitting on the glass (or on supports) before sand goes in, or they can dig out a base and cause a rock tumble.
  • Run a tight lid/mesh top; Diamond Watchmans are jumpers, especially the first week or after getting spooked.
  • Feed like they're always "working": small meaty foods 1-2x/day (mysis, brine, finely chopped shrimp, pellets) and don't assume the sandbed alone will cover them in newer tanks.
  • Watch the belly: a healthy one stays nicely rounded; a pinched-in belly usually means it's not getting enough food and can waste away even if it looks busy sifting.
  • Reef-safe with corals, but they'll bury frags and blast sand onto low corals-mount frags higher and leave some open sand for their burrow zone.
  • Peaceful with most community fish, but avoid other sand-sifting gobies (and sometimes other Valenciennea) unless the tank is big-they can turf-war over the same real estate.
  • Parameter-wise, keep it steady: 1.020-1.025 salinity (specific gravity), 72-78°F (22-26°C), and low ammonia/nitrite (zero); they're not fans of swings, and sudden changes often trigger hiding/jumping.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Peaceful clownfish (Ocellaris/Percula) - they mostly stick to their corner/anemone area and won't hassle a sand-sifter goby.
  • Small, chill wrasses like a Sixline/Yellow Coris *only if* they're not bullies in your tank - usually they cruise the rockwork and ignore the goby.
  • Blennies that mind their own business (Tailspot, Lawnmower) - different vibe and usually no territory overlap unless the rock space is super tight.
  • Cardinals (Banggai/Pajama) - slow, calm midwater fish that don't compete for the sandbed and won't spook the goby nonstop.
  • Reef-safe sandbed buddies like a cleaner shrimp / peppermint shrimp - the goby will sift sand all day and generally leaves shrimp alone.
  • Most peaceful reef fish like firefish or fairy flasher wrasses - as long as the tank isn't chaos, they coexist fine with a watchman goby.

Avoid

  • Aggressive/territorial dottybacks (especially Orchid/Royal that decide the whole rock is theirs) - they can harass the goby when it pops up to feed.
  • Big nasty damsels (Domino, Three-stripe, etc.) - constant chasing stress, and a stressed Diamond Watchman tends to hide and waste away.
  • Large hawkfish (like a big Flame Hawk) - not always, but they can be too pushy at feeding time and may snack on shrimp the goby would otherwise be fine with.
  • Other sand-sifting gobies or similar bottom sand workers in smaller tanks - they can squabble over the same 'sifting lane' and one ends up bullied off food.

Where they come from

Diamond Watchman Gobies (Valenciennea puellaris) come from sandy lagoon and reef-flat areas across the Indo-Pacific. Picture shallow water with patches of rubble and lots of fine sand—basically a buffet for a fish that makes a living sifting the bottom all day.

Setting up their tank

If you want this fish to look “busy and happy,” give it what it’s built for: sand. A Diamond Goby without a decent sandbed is like a tang without swimming room—it’ll cope, but it’s not the point of keeping the fish.

  • Tank size: I’d start at 30 gallons, but 40+ feels a lot less cramped once they start landscaping.
  • Sandbed: 2–3 inches minimum; 3–4 inches if you want more natural burrowing and less glass-surfing.
  • Sand type: fine to medium (sugar-sized to small grain). Big crushed coral can tear up their mouth and they just can’t sift it well.
  • Rockwork: set rocks on the glass or on stable supports, then add sand. They dig under things, and you don’t want a rock slide.
  • Flow: moderate is fine, but don’t blast the sandbed like a snowstorm—these guys already fling sand everywhere on their own.

They jump. Like, shockingly well. A tight lid (or mesh top with no gaps around plumbing) saves you the heartbreak. Most “mystery disappearances” with this species are carpet incidents.

Expect some “sand redecorating.” Mine loved to build little trenches and spit sand onto low rocks and even onto coral frags if I placed them too close to the bottom. Put your prized LPS and frags up on rocks until you learn the goby’s favorite dig zone.

What to feed them

This is the make-or-break part. A lot of Diamond Gobies slowly starve in newer tanks because the sand just doesn’t have enough micro-life yet. Yes, they sift sand all day—but that doesn’t automatically mean they’re getting enough calories.

  • Frozen: mysis, brine (enriched), finely chopped clam, and marine mixes—rotate so they don’t get picky.
  • Pellets: small sinking pellets work great once they recognize them as food (I’ve had good luck with 0.5–1mm sizes).
  • Target feeding: use a turkey baster or pipette and gently “rain” food onto the sand near them. They’re bottom-focused and miss a lot of midwater feeding.

Watch the belly. A healthy Diamond Goby has a slightly rounded belly most of the time. If it’s looking pinched/flat day after day, feed heavier and more often, or it may not be finding enough in the sand.

In my tanks they did best with small meals 1–2 times a day, especially early on. Once they’re taking pellets reliably, life gets easier. If you’re relying only on “it eats pods,” make sure the tank is mature and the sandbed is actually producing.

How they behave and who they get along with

They’re peaceful, constantly working, and kind of goofy to watch. Most of the day is: scoop sand, sift, spit. They’ll pick a burrow area and treat it like home base, especially at night.

  • Good tankmates: clownfish, wrasses (most), tangs, blennies, cardinals, chromis, peaceful reef fish.
  • Use caution with: very aggressive dottybacks, big hawkfish, or anything that bullies bottom dwellers.
  • Other sand sifters: avoid stacking too many (other Valenciennea gobies, some dragonets competing for pods, sand-sifting starfish). Food competition adds up fast.

They can pair up with their own kind, but two random Diamond Gobies doesn’t always end well. If you want a pair, aim for a proven pair from a vendor, or be ready with a backup plan.

They’re generally reef-safe, but they’re not “frag-safe.” If something sits on the sand, it may get buried. Also expect sand on the lower parts of rockwork—fine for most corals, annoying for a few (especially if it lands on fleshy polyps).

Breeding tips (what’s realistic in home tanks)

They can spawn in captivity (usually in a burrow), but raising the babies is the hard part. The larvae are tiny planktonic eaters, and you’re basically in “dedicated larval rearing setup” territory.

  • If you see a bonded pair guarding a burrow more than usual, spawning may be happening.
  • Keep the sandbed stable and don’t rearrange rockwork around their burrow once they’ve settled in.
  • If you ever want to attempt raising larvae, plan on separate rearing tanks and live foods (rotifers/copepod nauplii) from day one.

Common problems to watch for

  • Jumping: the #1 killer. Cover the tank.
  • Slow starvation: common in new/sterile sandbeds or in tanks with lots of food competition.
  • Sandstorms and buried corals: they’ll dump sand on frags and low corals; placement fixes most of it.
  • Rock instability: they dig under rocks—secure your aquascape before adding the fish.
  • Quarantine stress: they can be shy and go off food at first; offer small sinking foods and frozen near the bottom.

If your tank is under ~6 months old and you’re running a super-clean setup, be extra careful. These gobies often look “fine” for weeks, then fade because the sand just isn’t feeding them enough.

If you nail the sandbed and feeding, they’re one of the most useful (and entertaining) fish you can add. Just go in expecting a little mess, a lot of digging, and a goby that acts like the sand is its full-time job—because it is.

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