Piscora
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Blueband goby

Valenciennea strigata

Also known as: Golden-head sleeper goby, Yellowheaded sleeper goby, Yellowheaded sleeper goby, Golden Head Sleeper Goby, Bluestreak goby, Blue-lined goby, Pennant glider, Blue cheek goby, Barber goby

This is that classic gold/yellow-headed sand-sifting goby with the little blue cheek stripe-always busy, always rearranging your sandbed. In a reef tank it'll spend the day taking mouthfuls of sand, filtering out tiny critters/foods, then "snowing" clean sand back out, and it'll usually claim a burrow area (often as a pair in the wild). It's super cool behavior-wise, but you really do need a mature tank with a proper sandbed and a lid because they can jump.

AI-generated illustration of Blueband goby
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The Blueband goby features a slender, elongated body with distinct blue stripes along its flanks and striking yellow-orange accents on its fins.

Marine

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Quick Facts

Size

18 cm (7.1 inches) TL

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

40 gallons

Lifespan

2-5 years

Origin

Indo-Pacific

Diet

Carnivore/micro-predator - sand-sifts for small benthic invertebrates; supplement with mysis, finely-chopped meaty frozen foods, and small sinking pellets

Water Parameters

Temperature

22-28°C

pH

8.1-8.4

Hardness

8-12 dGH

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This species needs 22-28°C in a 40 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give them a real sandbed (2-4 inches of fine sand) - they're sand-sifters and will sulk or starve in bare-bottom tanks.
  • Cover the tank like you mean it; Blueband gobies are jumpers and will launch through tiny gaps when spooked.
  • Keep salinity steady around 1.025-1.026 and don't let nitrate/PO4 creep up - they handle "reef params" fine but hate swings.
  • Feed small meaty stuff 2-3x a day at first (mysis, enriched brine, finely chopped shrimp, pellets if they'll take them); new ones often come in skinny and need frequent meals to bounce back.
  • They'll sift sand all day and can bury frags and dust corals, so place corals on rocks and keep delicate LPS off the sand unless you like cleaning them.
  • Avoid other sand-sifting gobies and super-territorial bottom fish (some dottybacks, big wrasses) - they get bullied and stop eating fast.
  • Watch for them collapsing rockwork by digging; set your rocks on the glass or a solid base, not on top of loose sand.
  • Breeding is possible in pairs: they'll claim a burrow and lay eggs inside it, but raising the larvae is the hard part (tiny live foods and a separate rearing setup).

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Peaceful clownfish (ocellaris/percula) - they mostly hang in their own lane and won't bother a sand-sifting goby
  • Small, mellow wrasses like a possum wrasse or pink-streaked wrasse - active but generally polite, and they don't compete for the sand bed
  • Blennies with a calm vibe (tailspot, starry, lawnmower) - different feeding style and usually no drama as long as there's enough algae/rock grazing
  • Cardinals (banggai or pajama) - slow, peaceful midwater fish that won't spook the goby all day
  • Small reef-safe schooling types like chromis or zebra dartfish - they stick to the water column while the goby does the sand
  • A pistol shrimp buddy (Alpheus spp.) - not a fish, but a classic pairing; they'll often share a burrow and it's fun to watch

Avoid

  • Sand-bullies and fin-nippers like dottybacks (esp. bicolor/royal) - they love to harass timid fish and can keep a blueband hiding or stressed
  • Hawkfish (flame/longnose) - they're 'perchers' with attitude and can pick on gobies or rush them at feeding time
  • Big, pushy wrasses (many Thalassoma/Coris types) - they're too rowdy and can outcompete the goby hard, plus they're always in its face
  • Other sand-sifting gobies (diamond/watchman sifter types) in smaller tanks - they tend to feud over the same real estate and can starve each other out competing for microfauna

1) Where they come from

Blueband gobies (Valenciennea strigata) are sand-sifters from Indo-Pacific reef flats and lagoons. They hang out in shallow areas where the bottom is all sand and rubble, constantly taking mouthfuls of sand and spitting it out to pick out tiny critters.

That lifestyle explains basically everything about keeping them: they want sand, they want to dig, and they’ll redecorate your aquascape like it’s their job.

2) Setting up their tank

Give this fish a real sandbed. I’ve had the best luck with a tank that has a wide footprint and at least a couple inches of sand so they can sift and build a burrow under a rock edge.

  • Tank size: 30+ gallons works, but bigger footprints feel noticeably easier (40 breeder and up is comfy).
  • Sand: fine to medium aragonite is ideal; super sharp/crushed coral makes their constant sifting rough on them.
  • Rockwork: place rocks on the glass or on supports, then add sand around it—otherwise they can dig under rocks and cause a collapse.
  • Flow: moderate is fine; they’ll still sift. Too much sandstorm flow just annoys everyone.
  • Cover: use a lid or mesh top. They jump, especially after a scare or during new-tank stress.

Don’t “float” your rock on the sand and hope for the best. Bluebands excavate. If a rock shifts, it can pin the fish or crack the tank. Rock on glass first, sand second.

A more mature tank helps. They’re famous for slowly starving in sterile setups because they spend all day hunting microfauna in the sand. You can keep them in newer tanks, but you’ll be feeding heavier and watching weight closely.

3) What to feed them

In my tanks, the winning combo has been: frequent small meaty foods + making sure they actually eat it (not just sift sand all day). They can be picky at first, and they burn calories constantly.

  • Staples: thawed mysis, brine (better as a treat), finely chopped shrimp/clam, and quality marine pellets once they take them.
  • Best “get weight on” foods: enriched mysis and small frozen blends meant for reef fish.
  • Feeding schedule: 2–3 small feedings/day is way better than one big dump.
  • Targeting: use a turkey baster or pipette to puff food right in front of them while they’re out sifting.

Watch the belly line. A healthy blueband looks a bit "filled out" behind the head. If the area looks pinched or they’re getting skinny despite eating, bump up frequency and variety fast.

If you run a super-clean, low-nutrient reef, you may need to deliberately feed more than you’re used to. Just plan your filtration around it (skimmer, export, reasonable stocking).

4) Behavior and tankmates

They’re peaceful, busy little bulldozers. Most of the day is: grab sand, sift, spit, repeat. They’ll also make a burrow and may disappear for stretches, especially after you add them or if something spooks them.

  • Good tankmates: most peaceful community reef fish (clowns, cardinals, chromis, smaller wrasses, blennies).
  • Be careful with: aggressive dottybacks, big hawkfish, or anything that likes to claim the bottom and harass.
  • Other sand-sifters: competing Valenciennea gobies often turns into stress or one slowly losing weight.
  • Inverts: generally fine, but tiny ornamental shrimp can get bullied if the goby decides the burrow is “theirs.”

Expect sand on your corals. They don’t mean it, but they’ll spit sand everywhere. Keep frags up off the sand and avoid placing delicate LPS right in their "sifting lane."

They also rearrange the substrate around rock bases. If you’ve got low-sitting corals or a rock shelf that relies on sand support, plan for it to change.

5) Breeding tips (if you want to try)

They can spawn in captivity, usually in a bonded pair with a secure burrow. The challenge isn’t getting eggs—it’s raising the larvae. The babies are tiny and need live planktonic foods, so this is more “project tank” territory.

  • Pairing: best shot is introducing two juveniles and letting them sort it out (adult pairing can be hit-or-miss).
  • Spawning setup: stable tank, deepish sand, lots of caves/overhangs, and a predictable feeding routine.
  • If you see spawning: eggs are typically guarded in the burrow; lights-out hatches can happen and larvae go pelagic quickly.
  • Raising larvae: you’ll be looking at rotifers/copepod nauplii and a dedicated rearing setup—don’t expect it to work by accident in a display.

If breeding sounds fun but intimidating, consider it a long-term goal. Getting one fat, settled, and confident in your display is the first win.

6) Common problems to watch for

  • Slow starvation: the big one. They look “busy” all day, but that doesn’t mean they’re getting enough calories.
  • Jumping: especially early on, after a bully encounter, or after big maintenance.
  • Sandstorms and coral irritation: they’ll bury frags and dust corals if placement isn’t thought out.
  • Rockwork collapses: caused by digging under rocks sitting on sand.
  • Shipping/collection stress: many arrive thin; quarantine and patient feeding helps a lot.

If your blueband is hiding nonstop and getting thinner, don’t wait it out. Start target feeding, try different foods, and check for harassment. These guys can go downhill quietly.

If you set the tank up for their digging, keep a lid on, and feed like you mean it, they’re seriously rewarding fish. Watching them work the sandbed is one of those “reef tank is alive” moments that never really gets old.

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