Coral Beauty Angelfish
Centropyge bispinosa
Also known as: Coral beauty, Coral beauty angel, Dusky angelfish, Two-spined angelfish, Twospined angelfish, Twospine angelfish
Coral Beauty is that classic little dwarf angel with the purple-blue body and orange striping that looks different from fish to fish. It spends a lot of the day weaving through rockwork and picking at algae and other bits, so a tank with mature live rock really brings out its best behavior. It can be a little bossy (especially with other dwarf angels) and some individuals will nip corals, so it is reef-safe with caution.
Coral Beauty Angelfish exhibit a vibrant orange body with striking blue margins along the fins and a distinctive black spot on the forehead.
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Quick Facts
Size
11.5 cm
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
55 gallons
Lifespan
10-15+ years
Origin
Indo-Pacific
Diet
Omnivore - algae/spirulina, angelfish prep with sponge, plus mysis and other meaty frozen foods; will graze nori
Care Notes
- Give a Coral Beauty a tank with lots of live rock and caves (55g+ is way easier than a smaller box) - they graze and they want bolt-holes when they get spooked.
- Keep salinity steady around 1.024-1.026 and temp about 76-80F; they get cranky fast when salinity swings, especially after water changes or top-off mistakes.
- Feed like an omnivore that thinks its a herbivore: nori on a clip plus a quality angel/spirulina pellet, and toss in frozen mysis or brine a few times a week for variety.
- They do best with multiple small feedings and a mature tank with some natural algae - a brand-new sterile setup is where they start picking at stuff you do not want picked.
- Tankmates: usually fine with clowns, wrasses, gobies, and tangs in a roomy tank, but do not mix with other dwarf angels unless the tank is big and rockwork is complex.
- Reef note: some individuals behave, some become coral tasters - watch zoas, LPS, and clam mantles, and have a plan to trap it if it turns into a nipper.
- Common issues I see are ich after rough shipping and head/side erosion when diet is skinny; keep water stable, run good oxygenation, and lean on greens and vitamin-soaked foods.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Clownfish (Ocellaris or Percula) - they usually just do their own thing and can handle a Coral Beauty cruising the rockwork. Give both some territory and you are good.
- Fairy and flasher wrasses (Cirrhilabrus and Paracheilinus) - fast, not pushy, and they do not compete for the same caves like another dwarf angel would.
- Chromis (especially a small group in a bigger tank) - they stay up in the water column and the Coral Beauty mostly ignores them once the pecking order settles.
- Blennies and gobies with some attitude (lawnmower blenny, watchman goby) - bottom hangers that can hold a spot, and the Coral Beauty is usually more bark than bite with them.
- Bristletooth tangs like a Kole or Tomini - good algae grazers, active, and not typically the kind of tang that goes looking for a fight with a dwarf angel.
- Reef-safe-ish hawkfish like a longnose hawkfish - perches and watches, does not care about angel territory. Just do not pair with tiny shrimp if you want to keep them.
Avoid
- Other dwarf angels (flame angel, lemonpeel, even another Coral Beauty) - this is where you get the classic constant chasing and cave-claiming. In most normal tanks it turns into a turf war.
- Big bossy angels (e.g., Emperor, Queen) - they often decide the Coral Beauty is an intruder and will pin it in a corner. Not worth the stress unless the system is huge.
- Aggressive dottybacks and damsels (especially neon dottyback, big mean damsels) - they love the same rockwork and will scrap all day. Coral Beauty can be feisty, but these guys bring drama.
- Fin-nippers and hyper territorial stuff (some triggers, some large hawkfish in cramped tanks) - anything that turns every feeding into a boxing match will keep the Coral Beauty on edge.
Where they come from
Coral Beauty Angelfish are classic Indo-Pacific reef fish. You see them around reefs and rubble zones grazing all day, picking at film algae, sponges, and whatever tiny bits they can find. That constant grazing behavior is basically the key to keeping them happy in a tank.
Setting up their tank
Give them a tank with real rockwork to weave through. They are not a "sit in the open" fish, especially the first couple weeks. If you give them caves and overhangs, they settle in faster and spend more time out where you can see them.
- Tank size: I would not do less than 55 gallons for a single Coral Beauty. Bigger is easier if you have other semi-territorial fish.
- Rockwork: lots of hiding spots, plus open swim room. Aim for a few separate cave networks so they can claim a spot without owning the whole reef.
- Flow and filtration: decent flow and strong biofiltration help because they eat often and graze constantly.
- Lid: they can jump, especially during early settling-in or if chased.
If your tank is newer, wait until you have visible film algae on rocks and glass. A Coral Beauty that can graze between meals is way less likely to get skinny or picky.
Quarantine is worth the effort with this species. They can show up with flukes or marine ich, and angels tend to take a hit hard once they stop eating. I like to observe and get them eating aggressively before they go into the display.
What to feed them
Think "mixed reef grazer." Mine did best with variety, and with food offered more than once a day. They are not usually hard to feed, but some new arrivals act shy and only pick at the rocks for a bit.
- Staples: quality frozen blends (mysis, brine plus, reef mixes), finely chopped seafood, and good pellets or flakes once they take them
- Greens: nori on a clip (small pieces), spirulina-based foods, and algae-heavy frozen mixes
- Angel foods: anything with sponge in it is a nice bonus and seems to keep them in better shape long term
If a new Coral Beauty is being stubborn, try frozen mysis soaked in a little garlic or amino additive, then follow up with a small pellet once it is in "food mode." Also, feed near the rockwork so it feels safe grabbing bites.
I would rather feed smaller amounts 2-3 times a day than dump a big meal once. They are built to pick all day, and you will notice better body weight and less attitude.
How they behave and who they get along with
They are semi-aggressive in that "I live here" dwarf angel way. Most of the time they are fine, but they will absolutely defend their favorite cave and can turn into a little purple-and-orange bouncer if the tank is cramped.
- Good tankmates: clownfish, gobies, blennies, chromis, wrasses that are not bullies, cardinals, tangs in larger tanks
- Use caution: other dwarf angels (especially similar shape/color), dottybacks, aggressive damsels, territorial hawkfish in smaller tanks
- Avoid: big aggressive fish that will keep it pinned in a corner (it often stops eating when stressed)
Reef safety is a "maybe" with Coral Beauties. Some never touch corals, some develop a taste for fleshy LPS, zoas, or clam mantles. If you have a prized torch, acan garden, or clams, have a backup plan in case yours becomes a nipper.
A well-fed Coral Beauty is usually better behaved with corals, but it is not a guarantee. The ones that are underfed or in very sterile rockwork seem more likely to go sampling.
Breeding tips
Breeding them at home is possible, but it is not casual weekend-project territory. Like other Centropyge, they are protogynous (they can change sex), and spawning is typically a dusk event with a rise into the water column.
- If you want a shot, start with a small group in a larger system and let a pair form naturally (one will become male).
- Keep lighting consistent and give them a calm "dusk" period - sudden lights-out can interrupt spawning behavior.
- Raising larvae is the hard part: you need the right live foods (rotifers, copepods) and very stable rearing conditions.
Most hobbyists treat Coral Beauties as a display fish rather than a breeding project. If you are serious about larvae, look up marine larval rearing setups first - that is where the real work is.
Common problems to watch for
- Not eating after introduction: usually stress, bullying, or not enough cover. Dim the lights, add hiding spots, and offer small frequent feedings near rockwork.
- Marine ich and other parasites: angels can look fine one day and crash the next if they stop eating. Quarantine and observation save headaches.
- Flukes: flashing, heavy breathing, or hanging near flow can be signs. A freshwater dip can reveal flukes, but treatment should be planned and careful.
- Fin damage from aggression: watch for constant chasing or the angel staying pinned in one corner.
- Coral nipping: often starts as "just a little" and becomes a habit. If it is picking the same coral daily, it is probably not going to stop.
If your Coral Beauty stops eating, treat that like an emergency. Check for bullying, check water quality, and start offering its favorite foods right away. A dwarf angel that goes off food can spiral fast.
The best success I have had with this species comes down to three things: mature rock to graze, enough space to claim a territory without constant fights, and a steady rotation of foods. Do that, and they are one of the most rewarding dwarf angels you can keep.
Similar Species
Other marine semi-aggressive species you might be interested in.
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Galapagos snake eel
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Discover more marine species.
Banggai Cardinalfish
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Banggai cardinals just sort of hover like little underwater satellites, and the bold black bars with those long, polka-dotted fins look unreal under reef lighting. They're super chill most of the time, but once a pair forms you'll see real "fish drama," and the male will even mouthbrood the babies like a champ.
Blueband goby
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This is that classic gold/yellow-headed sand-sifting goby with the little blue cheek stripe-always busy, always rearranging your sandbed. In a reef tank it'll spend the day taking mouthfuls of sand, filtering out tiny critters/foods, then "snowing" clean sand back out, and it'll usually claim a burrow area (often as a pair in the wild). It's super cool behavior-wise, but you really do need a mature tank with a proper sandbed and a lid because they can jump.
Bristletail Filefish (Aiptasia-Eating Filefish)
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This little weirdo is one of my favorites because it's got that goofy filefish "face," a knack for wedging itself into rockwork, and a ton of personality once it settles in. People love them for the chance they'll snack on nuisance Aiptasia, but even when they're not on pest patrol they're just fun to watch cruise around and pick at stuff all day.
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