Piscora
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scale-eater, Malawian

Docimodus johnstoni

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Johnston's Docimodus features a streamlined body with iridescent greenish-yellow scales and prominent blue spots along the flanks.

Freshwater

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About the scale-eater, Malawian

Docimodus johnstoni is a Lake Malawi hap with unusual feeding ecology: in the wild it is documented to bite the fins of clariid catfishes and may remove scales/skin, making it fascinating biologically but unsuitable for most community aquaria.

Also known as

Scale-eater, Malawian

Quick Facts

Size

25 cm TL

Temperament

Aggressive

Difficulty

Expert

Min Tank Size

190 gallons

Lifespan

8-12 years

Origin

East Africa (Lake Malawi basin)

Diet

Lepidophage/fin-biter: in nature documented to bite fins (especially of clariid catfishes) and may remove scales/skin; in aquaria will accept quality carnivorous cichlid pellets and meaty frozen foods; not suitable with most tankmates.

Water Parameters

Temperature

23-28°C

pH

7.5-8.5

Hardness

10-25 dGH

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Care Notes

  • Provide a very large footprint tank with open sandy areas plus sturdy rock structures to break line-of-sight; prioritize swimming space. Driftwood is optional, but rocky structure typical of Malawi shores is preferred.
  • Keep the water alkaline: pH ~7.7–8.6 with relatively low GH around 4–8 °dGH and higher KH (Malawi water has KH > GH). Maintain excellent filtration and low nitrate with regular large water changes.
  • They do best around 23–28 °C (73–82 °F); stability is more important than a precise number. Use a reliable heater and cover—spooked fish may jump.
  • Offer quality carnivorous cichlid pellets as the staple with meaty frozen foods (e.g., krill, shrimp, mussel). Avoid feeder fish due to pathogen risk and avoid excessively fatty foods; maintain excellent biosecurity.
  • Tankmates, if attempted, should be limited to similarly large, robust Lake Malawi haps in a very large aquarium; avoid catfish (including clariids and similar) as they are at particular risk of fin-biting by Docimodus. Most community tankmates are unsuitable.
  • Expect territory issues once they mature - keep only one male per tank unless the setup is huge and packed with hiding spots, and rearrange decor if one fish starts claiming the whole aquarium.
  • If you try breeding, think 'mouthbrooder rules': give flat rocks/sand for a spawning spot, pull the holding female or strip the fry if you want any to survive, and keep other fish from harassing her.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Only with similarly large, robust Malawi haps in a very large aquarium; even then expect aggression and potential fin-nipping.

Avoid

  • Catfish (including clariids and other bottom-dwelling species) – at risk of fin-biting and harassment by Docimodus.
  • Barbs and other non-cichlid community fish – generally not recommended with African cichlids, especially aggressive specialists like Docimodus.
  • Large rainbowfish and other non-cichlids – generally discouraged with aggressive African cichlids like Docimodus.
  • Non-cichlid tankmates such as rope fish are generally unsuitable with aggressive African cichlids like Docimodus.
  • Other Docimodus johnstoni or similar aggressive cichlid-looking fish in a small tank - usually turns into nonstop dominance fights unless you have a big footprint and lots of rock to break lines of sight
  • Chill community fish like tetras, danios, and guppies - they get chased, stressed, and eventually picked off or shredded once the Johnston's gets settled in
  • Slow fish with fancy fins like angelfish, gouramis, and long-finned livebearers - the fins are basically an invitation to nip, and they cannot get away fast enough
  • Small bottom dwellers like corydoras and small loaches - they get harassed when they try to feed, and aggressive cichlid-types will often treat them like moving targets

Where they come from

Docimodus johnstoni is one of those African cichlids that shows up in the hobby mostly because hardcore Tanganyika people want something different. Theyre from Lake Tanganyika, and they come with that whole lake vibe: hard, mineral-rich water, lots of rock structure, and fish that dont do well with sloppy setups.

If youre looking at this fish, youre basically signing up for Tanganyika rules: stable, hard water and a tank built around territories.

Setting up their tank

Give them space and give them rockwork. I wouldnt even consider this species in a small tank. Theyre not a tiny shellie you can tuck into a 20 long. Think big footprint first, then build upward with rocks.

  • Tank size: I like 75g absolute minimum, and 125g feels way more forgiving if you plan on tankmates.
  • Footprint matters more than height. Long tanks make territory lines easier.
  • Rock piles with caves and cracks. Build it stable (zip ties, epoxy, or egg crate under the rocks) because big cichlids will redecorate.
  • Substrate: sand or fine gravel. Sand makes them act more natural and is easier on mouths and gills.
  • Filtration: oversized and boring-reliable. Strong bio capacity plus decent flow.
  • Water: hard and alkaline. Keep it consistent rather than chasing numbers.

New setups are where people lose Tanganyika fish. Dont add them to a tank thats still finding its balance. You want a mature filter and stable parameters week to week.

I also keep lighting moderate. Too bright and a lot of Tanganyikans stay edgy. Plants are usually a non-issue because most setups are rock and sand, but if you try any, stick to tough stuff and expect it to get dug up.

What to feed them

This is an expert fish partly because feeding is easy to get wrong long-term. You want variety, but you also want to avoid dumping rich foods every day and watching the fish get fat, bloaty, and lazy.

  • Staple: quality cichlid pellets that arent ultra-high fat.
  • Frozen foods: mysis, krill, chopped shrimp, and occasional high-protein treats in small amounts.
  • Add some roughage: spirulina-based foods or veggie-leaning pellets a few times a week.
  • Feeding rhythm: smaller meals more often beats one big dump.

If you notice stringy white poop, a pinched belly, or they start spitting food, back off the rich stuff and tighten up your routine. Most of the time its diet and stress, not some mystery disease.

How they behave and who they get along with

Expect a territorial Tanganyika cichlid with attitude. Theyre not mindless killers, but theyre not community fish either. If you keep them with timid species, the timid fish will spend their life hiding and slowly wasting away.

Ive had the best luck keeping them with other Lake Tanganyika fish that can handle themselves and that use different zones of the tank. Rockwork helps a ton. Break up sight lines and you break up a lot of the drama.

  • Good direction for tankmates: robust Tanganyikan cichlids of similar size and temperament, especially those that hold different territories.
  • Avoid: slow, gentle fish and anything small enough to be bullied relentlessly.
  • Stocking approach: either a focused species tank, or a carefully planned Tanganyika mix in a large tank with heavy rockwork.

Do not try to squeeze them into an overstocked tank to spread aggression. That trick sometimes works with mbuna-style setups, but Tanganyika fish often just stay stressed and mean, and you get chronic injuries and random deaths.

Breeding tips

Breeding is doable, but its not a beginner project. The first challenge is getting a compatible pair without one fish turning the other into a punching bag. If you want to try, start with a small group of juveniles in a big tank and let a pair form naturally.

  • Start with juveniles and grow them out together. Watch for a pair that sticks to the same area without constant violence.
  • Give them multiple caves and a couple of flat rock surfaces. Fish choose the spot, not you.
  • Once a pair forms, be ready to remove extra fish if the dominant one starts pinning others in corners.
  • If you get fry, have a plan. A lot of Tanganyika setups are not fry-friendly unless you add piles of small rock rubble for hiding.

Pairing cichlids can go from fine to brutal overnight. Keep a divider or an extra tank ready if youre experimenting.

Common problems to watch for

Most issues I see with this kind of fish come from three things: unstable water, bad diet habits, and social stress. The fish might look okay for a month, then slowly fall apart.

  • Chronic hiding, clamped fins, faded color: usually stress from tankmates or not enough cover.
  • Mouth injuries and torn fins: territory fights, especially in smaller tanks or sparse rockwork.
  • Bloat-like symptoms: overfeeding, too many rich foods, or a stressed fish not digesting well.
  • Hole-in-the-head style pitting: often tied to long-term water quality issues and poor diet variety.

If something looks off, test water first, then look at the social setup. With Tanganyika fish, fixing aggression and stability usually solves more than chasing meds.

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