Piscora
Aquatic water texture background

Royal gramma

Gramma loreto

Also known as: Fairy basslet, Royal gramma basslet

Royal grammas are that classic purple-to-yellow Caribbean basslet that likes to claim a cave and hover around it (sometimes totally upside-down under a ledge). They're usually chill with tankmates, but they can get spicy with other grammas/basslets/dottybacks if space is tight-give them rockwork and a "home" cave and they settle right in.

AI-generated illustration of Royal gramma
AI Generated
PhotoAll Rights Reserved

Royal grammas are distinguished by their vibrant purple to yellow coloration and elongated dorsal fin, exhibiting a striking contrast in hue.

Marine

This page includes AI-generated images. Why am I seeing AI images?

Quick Facts

Size

8 cm (3.1 inches)

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Beginner

Min Tank Size

20 gallons

Lifespan

5-8 years

Origin

Caribbean / Western Central Atlantic

Diet

Carnivore/micropredator - mysis, brine, chopped meaty seafood, quality pellets

Water Parameters

Temperature

24-28°C

pH

8.1-8.4

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 24-28°C in a 20 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

Calculate heater size

Care Notes

  • Give a royal gramma plenty of rockwork with a couple tight caves/overhangs-they love claiming a nook and hanging upside-down in it.
  • Keep salinity steady around 1.025-1.026 and temps ~76-80°F; they're forgiving, but they sulk fast if salinity swings.
  • They do best in a covered tank-grammas aren't the worst jumpers, but they'll still launch if spooked during lights-out or a chase.
  • Feed small meaty stuff: mysis, brine (better as a treat), finely chopped seafood, and quality pellets; 1-2 small feedings a day keeps them chunky and colorful.
  • Usually chill with other peaceful fish, but avoid pairing with pushy dottybacks, big/mean wrasses, or anything that will bully them out of their cave.
  • If you want more than one, add them together to a bigger tank with lots of hiding spots; two in a small tank often turns into one bossy gramma and one stressed gramma.
  • Watch for marine ich and flukes after purchase-many come in looking fine but start flashing or getting spots a week later, so quarantine helps a lot.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Peaceful clownfish (Ocellaris/Percula) - they mostly mind their own business, and the gramma just claims its little cave and ignores them once everyone's settled.
  • Small, chill gobies (clown goby, neon goby, watchman goby) - different 'zones' in the tank, and gobies aren't usually pushy about rock caves.
  • Blennies that aren't total jerks (tailspot blenny, lawnmower blenny) - they perch and graze, the gramma hangs under ledges. Minor posturing happens, but it's usually fine with enough rockwork.
  • Reef-safe wrasses that cruise around (fairy wrasses / flasher wrasses) - active midwater fish that don't try to steal the gramma's cave every five minutes.
  • Cardinalfish (banggai or pajama) - slow-ish but not finny, and they don't pick fights. They just hover while the gramma does its cave-guard thing.
  • Dwarf angels with some attitude (coral beauty, flame angel) - usually workable in a decently sized tank if there are lots of hiding spots, since both can be a bit territorial but in different areas.

Avoid

  • Dottybacks (like orchid or neon dottyback) - too similar in shape/attitude and they both love the same rock holes, so you get nonstop cave wars and chasing.
  • Other basslets/grammas (including another royal gramma in a smaller tank) - unless you've got a big tank and a proven pair, they tend to decide there can only be one purple cave boss.
  • Super aggressive rock-pickers (bigger hawkfish, aggressive damsels) - they'll constantly invade the gramma's territory and it turns into stress city, especially in tighter rockwork.
  • Big predatory stuff that sees 'small basslet' as a snack (large groupers, lionfish, big eels) - the gramma is tough for its size, but it's still bite-sized to those guys.

1) Where they come from

Royal grammas are Caribbean fish—think reefs around the Bahamas and nearby islands. In the wild they hang out in little caves and ledges, poking their purple-and-yellow faces out like they own the place (because they kinda do). That “cave fish” attitude explains a lot of their behavior in our tanks.

2) Setting up their tank

If you give a gramma one good hideout, it’ll use it like home base and be way less spicy about everything. Rockwork matters more than a giant open swimming lane for these guys.

  • Tank size: 20g+ works for a single (bigger is always easier for community harmony)
  • Rockwork: build caves/overhangs with a few different entrances so it doesn’t feel cornered
  • Flow: moderate is fine—just don’t blast its favorite cave with a powerhead
  • Lighting: they don’t care much; they’ll pick shade if it’s bright
  • Cover: use a lid or mesh top—grammas can jump, especially during spats or first week jitters

I like to place their “main cave” somewhere you can still see into it from the front glass. You get the best of both worlds: the fish feels secure, and you actually get to enjoy it.

They’re beginner-friendly, but they do best in a tank that’s past the ugly phase. Stable salinity and consistent maintenance beats chasing numbers. If you’re topping off by hand, try to be religious about it—swingy salinity is one of the fastest ways to make them sulk.

3) What to feed them

Royal grammas are usually great eaters once they settle in. Mine have taken frozen right away, and after a week or two most will learn pellets too. Variety makes them color up nicely and keeps them bold.

  • Frozen: mysis, brine (better as a treat), chopped krill, reef blends
  • Prepared: small sinking pellets, quality flakes (they’ll often grab bits mid-water too)
  • Frequency: 1–2 small feedings a day is plenty for most tanks
  • Target feeding: handy if tankmates are food bullies—use a pipette and feed near its cave

If your gramma hides nonstop and won’t eat, look at tankmate pressure first. They’re not usually “picky” so much as they’re being intimidated.

4) Behavior and tankmates

Most of the time they’re peaceful, but they’re also little territorial landlords. Expect them to claim a cave and defend a small bubble around it. In a community tank that’s usually a non-issue—as long as nobody tries to move in.

  • Generally good with: clownfish, gobies, blennies, chromis, dartfish (in calmer setups), tangs in larger tanks, many wrasses that aren’t jerks
  • Use caution with: dottybacks (similar vibe, often turns into a turf war), hawkfish (can be pushy), bigger aggressive clowns, and any fish that wants the same cave
  • Avoid mixing with: other grammas in small tanks (two can work in big systems with lots of rock, but it’s a gamble)

One funny thing: they’ll do that “upside-down in the cave” hover like they’re defying gravity. Totally normal. Also, don’t panic if it vanishes the first few days—once it learns the feeding routine, it usually starts greeting you.

Royal gramma vs. bicolor basslet: they’re different fish but get mixed up a lot. Grammas usually have a cleaner split between purple front and yellow back, and the black stripe through the eye tends to be more obvious.

5) Breeding tips (if you want to nerd out)

They can spawn in captivity, especially in peaceful tanks with lots of rock and stable routines. The male typically picks a cave and turns it into a nest site, sometimes using bits of algae or debris. You might see more intense color and some chasing that stays pretty localized.

  • Give them multiple caves and a quieter zone of the tank
  • Feed a bit heavier (not messy—just richer foods like mysis/quality pellets) if you’re hoping for spawning behavior
  • If eggs show up: they’re usually guarded in a cave, and the larvae are not easy to raise in a typical display tank

Most hobbyists don’t raise the babies without a dedicated larval setup (live foods, separate rearing tank, lots of practice). Still, seeing the nesting behavior is pretty cool even if you don’t go further.

6) Common problems to watch for

Royal grammas are hardy, but they’re not magic. Most issues I’ve seen come down to stress, bullying, or shipping-related parasites showing up after the “honeymoon week.”

  • Hiding nonstop: usually tankmate aggression, too little rock cover, or the fish was added last to a boisterous tank
  • Not eating: stress, competition at feeding time, or illness—try target feeding near its cave and watch breathing rate
  • Frayed fins: often a sign it’s getting nipped at (check clowns, dottybacks, hawkfish, and overly curious wrasses)
  • White spots/dusting: marine ich/velvet can hit them like any other fish—don’t ignore flashing or rapid breathing
  • Jumping: most common during the first week or after a fight—use a lid

If you see rapid breathing, staying out in the open looking “panicked,” or a fine gold/white dusting, treat it like an emergency. Velvet moves fast. Having a basic quarantine/hospital plan ready saves fish.

Last little piece of advice: add your gramma after the super-territorial fish (like established dottybacks or mean clowns) or don’t add it at all. If it gets the chance to claim a cave early, it’ll act confident instead of timid—and you’ll see it way more often.

Similar Species

Other marine semi-aggressive species you might be interested in.

AI-generated illustration of Blackspotted snake eel
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Blackspotted snake eel

Quassiremus ascensionis

This is a sand-burying snake eel from the tropical Atlantic that likes to sit with just its head poking out, waiting for food. It gets pretty big (around 70 cm) and needs a real marine setup with a deep, soft sand bed and a tight lid because eels are escape artists.

LargeSemi-aggressiveExpert
Min. 400 gal
AI-generated illustration of Blue Green Chromis (Green Chromis)
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Blue Green Chromis (Green Chromis)

Chromis viridis

Blue Green Chromis are those shimmery little green-blue darts you'll see zipping around the top of a reef tank, always looking like they're catching the light just right. They're super fun in a group because they hover and cruise together, but they've got a bit of a "pecking order" thing going on if the tank's tight or the group's too small.

SmallSemi-aggressiveBeginner
Min. 30 gal
AI-generated illustration of Broadbarred firefish
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Broadbarred firefish

Pterois antennata

This is the lionfish with the long "antennae" (those banded tentacles above the eyes) and the ragged, spotty fins that make it look extra dramatic under reef lighting. It'll spend the day tucked under ledges and then cruise out at dusk to ambush shrimp, crabs, and any small fish it can fit in its mouth-also worth remembering it's venomous, so you treat it with respect when you're in the tank.

MediumSemi-aggressiveIntermediate
Min. 50 gal
AI-generated illustration of Comet
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Comet

Calloplesiops altivelis

This is the famous "Marine Betta" look-alike: jet-dark with those starry spots, and that wild fake eye near the back that makes predators bite the wrong end. It's a super shy cave-dweller by day and then turns into a sneaky night hunter, cruising out for crustaceans and small fish.

MediumSemi-aggressiveIntermediate
Min. 75 gal
AI-generated illustration of Coral Beauty Angelfish
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Coral Beauty Angelfish

Centropyge bispinosa

Coral Beauty is that classic little dwarf angel with the purple-blue body and orange striping that looks different from fish to fish. It spends a lot of the day weaving through rockwork and picking at algae and other bits, so a tank with mature live rock really brings out its best behavior. It can be a little bossy (especially with other dwarf angels) and some individuals will nip corals, so it is reef-safe with caution.

SmallSemi-aggressiveIntermediate
Min. 55 gal
AI-generated illustration of Foxface Rabbitfish
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Foxface Rabbitfish

Siganus vulpinus

Siganus vulpinus is that bright yellow "fox-masked" rabbitfish you see cruising around picking at algae all day. It's generally chill with other fish, but it can get a little bossy with similar-shaped grazers-and those dorsal spines are venomous, so nets and hands need to be treated with respect.

LargeSemi-aggressiveIntermediate
Min. 125 gal

More to Explore

Discover more marine species.

AI-generated illustration of Banggai Cardinalfish
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Banggai Cardinalfish

Pterapogon kauderni

Banggai cardinals just sort of hover like little underwater satellites, and the bold black bars with those long, polka-dotted fins look unreal under reef lighting. They're super chill most of the time, but once a pair forms you'll see real "fish drama," and the male will even mouthbrood the babies like a champ.

SmallPeacefulBeginner
Min. 30 gal
AI-generated illustration of Blueband goby
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Blueband goby

Valenciennea strigata

This is that classic gold/yellow-headed sand-sifting goby with the little blue cheek stripe-always busy, always rearranging your sandbed. In a reef tank it'll spend the day taking mouthfuls of sand, filtering out tiny critters/foods, then "snowing" clean sand back out, and it'll usually claim a burrow area (often as a pair in the wild). It's super cool behavior-wise, but you really do need a mature tank with a proper sandbed and a lid because they can jump.

MediumPeacefulIntermediate
Min. 40 gal
AI-generated illustration of Bristletail Filefish (Aiptasia-Eating Filefish)
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Bristletail Filefish (Aiptasia-Eating Filefish)

Acreichthys tomentosus

This little weirdo is one of my favorites because it's got that goofy filefish "face," a knack for wedging itself into rockwork, and a ton of personality once it settles in. People love them for the chance they'll snack on nuisance Aiptasia, but even when they're not on pest patrol they're just fun to watch cruise around and pick at stuff all day.

SmallPeacefulIntermediate
Min. 30 gal
AI-generated illustration of Chinese zebra goby
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Chinese zebra goby

Ptereleotris zebra

Ptereleotris zebra is one of those slick, torpedo-shaped dartfish that likes to hover in the water column, then instantly zip back into a bolt-hole when it gets spooked. In the wild it hangs out on exposed seaward reefs in groups, often in current, and in a tank the big thing is giving it open swim room plus tight cover because it is absolutely a jumper.

MediumPeacefulIntermediate
Min. 20 gal
AI-generated illustration of Diamond Watchman Goby
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Diamond Watchman Goby

Valenciennea puellaris

This is that sand-sifting goby you'll see cruising the bottom, taking huge mouthfuls of sand and spitting it out like a little construction crew. It's awesome for keeping a sandy substrate looking clean, but it'll also redecorate-so anything sitting on the sand is gonna get buried or undermined sooner or later. Super cool personality too, especially once it picks a favorite burrow and starts "working" all day.

MediumPeacefulIntermediate
Min. 40 gal
AI-generated illustration of Exquisite wrasse
Marine
AI Generated
Photo

Exquisite wrasse

Cirrhilabrus exquisitus

This is one of those fairy wrasses that looks like it was painted with highlighters - males can shift through greens, reds, blues, and purples depending on mood and whether they are showing off. In a reef tank its usually out and cruising the water column, grabbing tiny meaty foods, and doing little display flare-ups at its own reflection or other wrasses. Biggest real-world gotcha is they are jumpers, so a tight lid or mesh top is basically mandatory.

MediumPeacefulIntermediate
Min. 50 gal

Looking for other species?