Hairy blenny
Labrisomus nuchipinnis
The Hairy blenny features distinctive, bristly skin covering and a prominent dorsal fin, showcasing hues of brown and green.
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About the Hairy blenny
This is a chunky little rock-dweller that basically lives in holes and crevices and zips to the next hideout when it gets spooked. Males can show reddish color on the lower head and belly, and they are territorial spawners with the male guarding the eggs. Super cool fish to watch if you like cryptic, perch-and-pounce hunters more than open-water swimmers.
Quick Facts
Size
23 cm
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
55 gallons
Lifespan
3-7 years
Origin
Western and Eastern Atlantic (Caribbean/Florida to Brazil; also Madeira/Canaries to West Africa)
Diet
Carnivore - crustaceans and other meaty foods (shrimp, mysis, chopped seafood)
Water Parameters
23.6-28.1°C
8-8.4
8-12 dGH
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This species needs 23.6-28.1°C in a 55 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give a hairy blenny lots of real rockwork with tight cracks and little caves - they like to wedge in and watch the tank like a grumpy landlord. A sandy bottom helps since they hang low and hop around rocks.
- Keep salinity stable around 1.023–1.026 (SG) and temperature about 75–81°F (24–27°C); avoid rapid swings. Maintain marine pH around 8.1–8.4 and good aeration/filtration.
- They are meaty eaters, not algae grazers - think mysis, chopped shrimp, clam, and quality frozen blends. Feed small portions 1-2 times a day and use a feeding stick or target feed if tankmates are quicker.
- Skip tiny ornamental shrimp and very small fish - this blenny will treat bite-sized stuff like snacks. They usually do fine with tougher community fish, but avoid other blennies/goby-looking rock perch types in small tanks since they can get territorial.
- Use a tight-fitting lid or mesh top; blennies are capable jumpers and may bolt when spooked. Cover pump intakes to prevent perching/entrapment.
- Watch for bullying from bigger wrasses, dottybacks, or aggressive damsels that camp the same rock piles. If yours stays hidden all day and comes out with ragged fins, rearrange rockwork or move the aggressor.
- Breeding is possible but uncommon: pairs use a cave; adhesive demersal eggs are laid on the substrate, and the male guards and fans the clutch. Avoid disturbing active nests.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Chunky, confident tank mates like dwarf angels (flame angel, coral beauty) - they can handle a blenny that likes to perch and throw attitude if someone crowds its hole
- Tangs and rabbitfish - active open-water grazers that mostly ignore the blenny and do not try to move into its favorite rock crevice
- Fairy and flasher wrasses - quick, midwater swimmers that do their own thing and are usually gone before the blenny can even decide to be cranky
- Clownfish (especially ocellaris/percula) - generally fine as long as the blenny has its own rockwork and the clowns are not hosting right on top of the blenny's cave
- Cardinalfish (Banggai, pajama) - calm, sturdy fish that hover and keep out of the blenny's personal space, so you do not get constant 'get off my lawn' moments
Avoid
- Avoid other blennies and similar perch-and-cave fish (most combtooth blennies, other Labrisomus, some small hawkfish-like sitters) - they tend to beef over the same prime real estate
- Avoid tiny, shy fish like small gobies and peaceful dartfish that like to sit near the rocks - the hairy blenny can harass them hard once it decides they are 'in the zone'
- Avoid aggressive rock-pickers like dottybacks and many damsels - they crank the whole tank up and you end up with nonstop corner-posturing around the rockwork
- Ornamental shrimp and other bite-sized crustaceans (e.g., sexy shrimp, small cleaner shrimp), and very small fish that can be viewed as prey
Where they come from
Hairy blennies (Labrisomus nuchipinnis) are Caribbean fish. Think shallow rocky reefs, rubble, and pockets of algae where they can wedge themselves in and watch the world go by. They are built for that life: camo pattern, big personality, and a habit of sitting still until food wanders close.
Setting up their tank
If you set up the tank like a little chunk of reef rock with lots of hiding cracks, you are already halfway there. These blennies like territory and cover more than open swimming space.
- Tank size: I would start at 30 gallons for one. Bigger is easier if you want other bottom-dwellers too.
- Rockwork: lots of caves, overhangs, and tight crevices. They love a "favorite hole".
- Flow: moderate. Give them calmer pockets behind rocks so they can perch without getting blasted.
- Substrate: sand is fine, rubble zones are even better. They spend a lot of time near the bottom and in rock gaps.
- Filtration: they are messy eaters, so a decent skimmer and regular nutrient export helps a lot.
Cover your tank. Hairy blennies can and will jump, especially early on or if they get spooked at night.
Give them time to settle. The first week or two they may act like a grumpy little gargoyle that only comes out at feeding time. Once they pick a home, they get bolder.
What to feed them
These are not the classic algae-grazing "lawnmower blenny" type. Hairy blennies lean carnivorous. Mine did best on meaty foods and would ignore most veggie-heavy stuff.
- Frozen: mysis, chopped krill, brine (as a treat), clam, and mixed reef blends
- Prepared: sinking marine pellets and small carnivore wafers (start small and see what they accept)
- Live: amphipods and copepods are a nice bonus, especially in an established tank
Target feeding helps. Use a turkey baster or pipette and squirt food near their perch. They learn fast and it keeps faster fish from stealing everything.
I have had better luck feeding smaller amounts more often rather than one big dump. They will overeat if they can, and the leftovers foul the water fast.
How they behave and who they get along with
Hairy blennies are perch-and-pounce fish. They sit, watch, and make quick little dashes for food. Personality-wise, expect "bold but not a nonstop swimmer."
- Toward fish: usually fine with peaceful mid-water fish, but they can be territorial with other bottom perchers
- Toward similar fish: other blennies, gobies, and hawkfish-looking types can trigger squabbles in smaller tanks
- Toward inverts: bigger shrimp and crabs are often ignored, but tiny shrimp (and very small ornamental crabs) can be seen as snacks
- Toward corals: generally reef-safe in the sense that they do not go munching coral polyps, but they may knock frags if they wedge into spots
If you want one blenny that mostly minds its own business, keep one hairy blenny per tank unless you have a larger setup with lots of separated rock piles. Two in a small tank often turns into a turf war.
They are pretty good at holding their ground, but they are not invincible. Avoid housing them with very aggressive fish that patrol the rockwork (big dottybacks, nasty damsels, or larger wrasses that bully). A hairy blenny that gets pinned into hiding stops eating.
Breeding tips
Breeding them in a home aquarium is possible but not something most people accidentally pull off. They are cave spawners in the wild, with eggs laid in a protected spot and the male typically guarding.
- Provide multiple snug caves (small PVC elbows hidden in rock work too) so a pair has options
- Keep them well-fed on meaty foods and stable day-night lighting
- If you ever see one refusing to leave a cave and fanning inside, check for eggs
Raising the larvae is the hard part. If you end up with a hatch, you are looking at tiny planktonic babies that need live foods (rotifers, then copepods) and a separate rearing setup. Most community tanks will just eat them.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with hairy blennies come down to two things: stress from tankmates and not getting enough food because faster fish outcompete them. They are hardy once settled, but the first month tells the story.
- Not eating at first: common after shipping. Dim the lights, offer frozen mysis and small meaty bits, and target feed near their hideout
- Jumping: usually a startled fish or a new fish exploring. Lids and covered gaps fix this
- Territorial fights: torn fins and constant posturing happen if you cram multiple perch fish into the same rock pile
- Ich/velvet: they are not immune. Quarantine if you can, and do not ignore fast breathing or flashing
- Bloat/constipation: can happen if they gorge on large dry pellets. Mix in frozen foods and keep pellet size small
Watch their belly. A healthy hairy blenny looks solid but not stuffed. If it stays pinched in, it is usually a feeding competition problem, not a mystery disease.
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