Longnose hawkfish

Where they come from

Longnose hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus) are reef fish from the Indo-Pacific. You will see them perched on branching corals and gorgonians, kind of like a little red bird sitting on a fence post, watching for food to drift by.

That perching lifestyle explains a lot of how they act in our tanks: they pick a few favorite lookout spots, and they really like structure they can sit on.

Setting up their tank

Give them a reef-style layout with plenty of rockwork and a few higher "perches". Mine always claimed the highest branching rock or a gorgonian as their home base and would hop from spot to spot all day.

Tank size is less about swimming room and more about having territory and stable water. I would personally start at 30 gallons, and bigger is always easier for stability if you can swing it.

• Lots of live rock with ledges and branches (they like to sit, not cruise)
• Moderate flow (enough to keep detritus moving, not so much they get blasted off their perch)
• A lid or mesh top - they can jump, especially when spooked
• Stable salinity and temp like any reef fish (avoid big swings from top-off neglect)

What to feed them

These guys are meaty-food eaters. Think of them as little ambush predators. In a healthy tank they may also pick at tiny pods, but you should not count on that to feed them.

Most longnose hawks learn frozen foods quickly. If yours is shy at first, feed smaller pieces and use a turkey baster or feeding stick to put food right in their zone. Once they connect you with food, they get bold fast.

• Frozen mysis is the easy staple
• Chopped krill, clam, or shrimp for variety (cut to mouth-size)
• Enriched brine shrimp as a treat, not the main diet
• Small pellets can work if they take them, but many prefer frozen

How they behave and who they get along with

Longnose hawkfish are one of those fish with tons of personality. They perch, they watch you, and they will track your hand during maintenance. They are not nonstop swimmers, but they are almost always visible if the tank feels safe.

They can be semi-territorial, especially in smaller tanks, but they are usually fine with other reef fish that do not try to claim the same perches. I have had the best luck pairing them with peaceful to moderately assertive community fish.

• Generally good tankmates: clownfish, gobies (most), blennies, wrasses that are not too aggressive, dwarf angels (with the usual caveats), tangs in larger tanks
• Use caution: other hawkfish (can fight), very timid fish (can get bullied), tiny ornamental shrimp and very small crabs
• Avoid: fish that will harass them constantly (overly aggressive dottybacks, big mean damsels), and anything that will eat them (large predators)

Breeding tips

Breeding longnose hawkfish at home is not something most hobbyists pull off. They can pair up and spawn in aquariums, but raising the larvae is the hard part - they are tiny pelagic babies that need specialized live foods and setups.

If you ever end up with two that seem bonded (hanging out together without constant fighting), you might see a little dusk-time rise in the water column. That is usually as far as it goes in a typical mixed reef, since the eggs and larvae do not stand much of a chance in a display tank.

Common problems to watch for

The biggest issues I see with longnose hawkfish are really "new fish" issues: shipping stress, not eating right away, and the usual saltwater parasites. Once settled and eating, they are pretty forgiving as reef fish go.

• Not eating the first few days: offer smaller meaty foods, feed near their perch, keep tankmates from outcompeting them
• Jumping: always use a lid/mesh top, especially during the first couple weeks
• Picking off shrimp: if you love your nano shrimp, do not roll the dice with a hawkfish
• Parasites (ich/velvet): quarantine if you can, and do not add them to an unstable or newly set up tank
• Injury from aggressive tankmates: they are perchers and can get cornered if bullied