Broadbarred firefish

1) Where they come from

Broadbarred firefish (Pterois antennata) are lionfish from the Indo-Pacific—think reefs and rubble zones from the Red Sea across to the western Pacific. They’re the “hang out under ledges and pounce” kind of predator, and you’ll see that exact vibe in your tank once they settle in.

2) Setting up their tank

Give this fish space and shade. Mine spent a lot of time hovering under overhangs, then drifting out at feeding time like it owned the place. A cramped, brightly lit, bare tank makes them skittish and more likely to wedge themselves into dumb spots.

• Tank size: I’d start at 75 gallons for one, bigger is nicer (especially if you want tankmates). They get chunky and carry a lot of “presence.”
• Rockwork: Build caves/overhangs and leave open water in front. They like a home base with a clear view.
• Flow: Moderate. They’re not a high-flow surfer like some wrasses, but they shouldn’t be stuck in dead zones either.
• Lighting: Whatever your reef/fish-only setup uses is fine—just make sure there are dim areas and places to retreat.
• Filtration: Strong mechanical + biological. Lionfish are messy eaters and their food is rich.
• Cover: A lid helps. They’re not famous jumpers like gobies, but startled fish do weird things.

I also like to keep a “feeding zone” up front—an open patch where you can consistently deliver food with tongs. It trains them fast and keeps them from hunting behind the rocks where you can’t see what’s going on.

3) What to feed them

They’re predators and they want meaty foods. The big hobbyist win is getting them off live food and onto frozen/silversides/shrimp chunks early. Once they associate the tongs with dinner, life gets way easier.

• Great staples: thawed shrimp, squid, clam, chunks of marine fish, scallop, krill (as a treat, not the only thing).
• Feeding method: long feeding tongs or a feeding stick. Wiggle the food a bit—movement is the trigger.
• Frequency: juveniles can eat smaller meals more often; adults usually do well a few times a week. Don’t turn them into blimps.
• Vitamins: soak occasionally (especially if you’re heavy on one food type).

4) Behavior and tankmates

Broadbarred firefish are generally chill… until something fits in their mouth. They’re not usually looking to start fights, but they’re absolutely looking for snacks. Most “mystery disappearances” in lionfish tanks aren’t mysteries.

• Temperament: calm, predatory, more active around feeding time and dusk.
• Reef-safe? With corals, yes. With small fish and shrimp/crabs, no—expect losses.
• Good tankmates: larger angels, tangs, rabbitfish, bigger wrasses, triggers that aren’t fin-nippers (pick carefully), sturdy fish that won’t fit in the lion’s mouth.
• Avoid: tiny gobies/blennies, small cardinals, small clownfish, ornamental shrimp, and anything that sleeps on the sand looking bite-sized.

One more real-world tip: introduce them with the lights low and the rockwork already set. They don’t love big changes. If you’re adding tankmates later, add the more assertive fish first, then the lionfish, so it doesn’t immediately claim the whole tank as its hunting ground.

5) Breeding tips (what’s realistic at home)

Breeding lionfish in home tanks isn’t impossible, but raising the babies is the hard part. Adults may spawn in larger, stable systems (often around dusk). They release buoyant egg masses that float—cool to see, but the larvae are tiny and need specialized live foods.

• If you ever see spawning behavior: dim-light courtship and a brief rush upward in the water column.
• Eggs: often float; overflows and pumps can shred them fast.
• Raising larvae: you’re in rotifers/copepods and dedicated rearing setup territory. Most hobbyists stop at “neat, they spawned.”

6) Common problems to watch for

Most issues I’ve seen with antennata lionfish come down to three things: diet, stress/fin damage, and parasites. They’re hardy once settled, but they don’t bounce back from repeated harassment or lousy food.

• Refusing food: common after shipping. Offer dim lighting, a safe cave, and try tempting foods (shrimp/squid) with movement on tongs.
• Overfeeding: fatty liver and “lazy lump” behavior. Keep portions reasonable and don’t feed every time you walk by the tank.
• Fin damage/infection: often from nippers or scrapes in tight rockwork. Keep the aquascape roomy and choose tankmates wisely.
• Parasites (marine ich/velvet): lionfish aren’t immune. Quarantine new fish if you can, and don’t assume a tough-looking predator can shrug it off.
• Swallowing hazards: they can try to eat spiny fish or something too big and injure themselves internally. Avoid “maybe it fits” tankmate choices.

If you set them up with good rockwork, feed a varied meaty diet, and keep bite-sized tankmates out of the equation, they’re honestly a rewarding predator to keep. They’re interactive in their own way—mine learned the feeding stick routine and would “appear” the moment I walked up.