Piscora
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Chessboard blenny

Starksia sluiteri

AI-generated illustration of Chessboard blenny
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The Chessboard blenny features a distinct checkerboard pattern of dark brown and light yellow on its body, with elongated dorsal and anal fins.

Marine

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About the Chessboard blenny

A tiny reef-dweller with bold chessboard spots, this little blenny spends most of its time peeking from rubble and rock crevices. It is fun to watch during feeding time as it darts out to snag tiny crustaceans, then zips back to its hidey-hole.

Also known as

Spotted blennyTrambollito ajedrez

Quick Facts

Size

2.8 cm

Temperament

Peaceful

Difficulty

Intermediate

Min Tank Size

10 gallons

Lifespan

3-5 years

Origin

Western Atlantic - southern Caribbean and Brazil

Diet

Carnivore - small benthic crustaceans and worms; accepts small frozen foods in captivity

Water Parameters

Temperature

23-27°C

pH

8.1-8.4

Hardness

300-400 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 23-27°C in a 10 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give it a rock-heavy nano - 10 to 20 gallons with lots of porous rock, rubble pockets, and shaded nooks. Use a tight mesh lid; they launch when spooked.
  • Hold salinity around 1.025 and temp 76-78 F with good oxygenation and moderate flow along the rock. Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 and nitrate under 15 ppm.
  • Feed small meaty foods 1-2x daily - cyclops, calanus, finely chopped mysis, enriched brine, and pods - and squirt it near their perch with a pipette. Masstick or frozen paste smeared on a rock gets shy ones eating.
  • Keep one per tank under 30 gallons; they bicker with other blennies and perchers like small gobies. Pair it with calm fish and skip bullies like dottybacks, hawkfish, and sixline wrasses.
  • Reef safe with corals, but it will chew through your pod population and may pick at feather dusters. Tiny shrimp like sexy shrimp can disappear; larger cleaners are usually fine.
  • If you find a pair, give them a short PVC elbow or big shell to spawn in; the male guards the eggs. The fry are planktonic and need pods and greenwater, so raising them is a project.
  • A sunken belly means it is losing the food race - feed heavier and reduce competition from fast feeders. Watch body condition rather than how often you see it, since they hide a lot.
  • Quarantine new arrivals and keep lights low for the first week. Go light on copper or formalin in QT and give plenty of hides.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Tiny peaceful gobies like Eviota, Trimma, and neon gobies - they mind their business and wont steal the blennys perches
  • Firefish and other dartfish (Nemateleotris) - calm midwater buddies that wont hassle a shy rock-percher
  • Possum or pink-streaked wrasses - gentle, small, and not bulldozers at feeding time
  • Assessors (yellow or blue) - cave hovers that pretty much ignore bottom blennies
  • Chill clownfish like ocellaris or percula - usually fine if the tank is peaceful and feeding is fair
  • Cardinalfish (pajama or banggai) - easygoing and leave a tiny Starksia alone

Avoid

  • Dottybacks and most damsels - pushy, territorial, and theyll pin a chessboard blenny in the rocks
  • Sixline and other hyper wrasses - notorious harassers and pod competitors, the blenny loses that matchup
  • Other blennies or perch-loving lookalikes - they fight over the same holes and ledges in smaller tanks
  • Hawkfish - opportunistic and likely to snack on a tiny chessboard blenny

Where they come from

The chessboard blenny (Starksia sluiteri) is a tiny Caribbean cryptic blenny, usually found tucked into coral rubble and sponge-covered rock from shallow reefs down to moderate depths. They sit and watch from little holes, then hop to the next nook like they own the block.

Setting up their tank

Give them a mature, rock-heavy setup. They are small, so a single fish does fine in 10-20 gallons, but the key is structure. Think caves, crevices, and piles of rubble where they can back in and peek out. Bare, new tanks make them stressed and skinny.

  • Live rock and rubble: stack loosely so there are multiple bolt-holes and shaded ledges.
  • Substrate: fine sand to small crushed coral. They do not dig, but they like to perch low.
  • Lighting: moderate to low. Bright reef lights are fine if you give shaded spots.
  • Flow: moderate with quieter pockets. Too much blast and they pin themselves to the rock.
  • Lid: tight-fitting. They are jumpers, especially first week.

A refugium helps a ton with pods. If you do not run one, seed the tank with copepods and let the system age before adding the fish.

  • Temperature: 75-80 F (24-27 C)
  • Salinity: 1.024-1.026
  • pH: 8.1-8.4
  • Nitrate: under 20 ppm
  • Phosphate: low but not zero

Add them after the tank has been stable for a few months. They hunt microfauna between meals, and new tanks do not offer much of that.

What to feed them

They pick at tiny critters on the rock, but you can get them onto prepared foods. Start small and tempting, then build a routine.

  • Live or refrigerated pods (Tigriopus, Tisbe) for the first week or two.
  • Frozen foods: enriched baby brine, cyclops, finely chopped mysis, calanus, roe.
  • High-quality micro pellets (0.5-1 mm), offered sparingly once they recognize them.

Feed small portions 2-3 times daily at first. Target feeding with a pipette right to their perch helps a shy newcomer. I like to turn off the pumps for 5-10 minutes so the food settles around their hideout.

If they ignore frozen, mix live pods into thawed cyclops so the scent gets them pecking. Over a week, reduce the live portion and keep the routine time and spot consistent.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are perch-and-dash fish. Expect them to claim one small zone and watch the world from there. Once settled, they get bold at feeding time and do quick, jerky hops between holes.

  • Good tankmates: small gobies, peaceful clownfish, cardinalfish, firefish, small basslets like royal grammas (watch territories), scooter blennies if the tank is large and pod-rich.
  • Use caution: wrasses and dottybacks can be food bullies and may outcompete or harass them.
  • Avoid: hawkfish and larger predatory fish that view tiny blennies as snacks.
  • Reef-safe with corals: yes. They may snack on very small fanworms and micro crustaceans.
  • Inverts: fine with snails and larger cleaner shrimp. Tiny decorative shrimp (sexy, anemone shrimp) are risky.

Keep one per tank unless you have a confirmed pair and plenty of space. They get scrappy with similar-sized blennies over hidey-holes.

Breeding tips

They are cave spawners. A bonded pair will choose a small cavity, clean it, and lay adhesive eggs inside. The male usually guards. Getting a pair is the hardest part, since sexing is subtle and they are not always available in groups.

  • Provide multiple snug caves and shells near the bottom.
  • Keep them well fed on varied, meaty foods.
  • Watch for nest-guarding behavior and a brighter, more defensive male.
  • Eggs hatch in about a week depending on temperature. Larvae are tiny and pelagic.
  • For rearing, use greenwater with rotifers and copepod nauplii, gentle circular flow, and meticulous water quality.

Raising the larvae is advanced. If you are just starting, enjoy the courtship and guarding behavior and do your homework before attempting a run.

Common problems to watch for

  • Starvation: new specimens often rely on pods at first. Have live foods ready.
  • Shyness after arrival: dim the lights a bit, feed near the perch, and be patient.
  • Jumping: lid gaps cause surprises, especially during spooks or disputes.
  • Food competition: fast feeders will steal everything. Target feed or use a feeding station.
  • Territorial spats: other small blennies or similar perchers can trigger fights.
  • Disease from shipping stress: quarantine with hiding spots, observe closely. If you medicate, dose copper carefully and monitor appetite.
  • Microfauna crash: heavy filtration or overzealous cleaning can wipe pods. Keep a refugium or reseed periodically.

Avoid adding them to a brand-new, sterile tank. Give the system time to mature or plan for supplemental live foods, or you will end up with a fish that never settles and slowly loses weight.

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