Lanceolate shrimpgoby

Where they come from

Lanceolate shrimpgobies (Tomiyamichthys lanceolatus) come from sandy, rubble-strewn areas on Indo-Pacific reefs. In the wild they hang out right at the bottom, usually near a burrow, and they spend most of their day hovering a few inches off the sand and snapping up tiny food drifting by.

They are not a "centerpiece" fish in the classic sense. They are more of a watch-them-do-their-thing fish, and if you like gobies, that is half the fun.

Setting up their tank

Think bottom-first. You want a mature reef tank with a calm, stable sandbed and lots of little broken-up rock bits. They do best when they can claim a small patch of sand next to rockwork where they feel sheltered.

• Tank size: I would not do one in anything under 30 gallons, and 40+ gives you a lot more wiggle room with tankmates and feeding.
• Sandbed: fine sand, roughly 2-3 inches. Too coarse and they look uncomfortable and have trouble settling.
• Aquascape: rock on the glass, sand around it. Leave at least one open sandy zone in front.
• Flow: moderate overall, but give them at least one lower-flow pocket near the bottom so they can hover without getting blasted.
• Cover: a tight lid. Gobies can and will launch when spooked.

You will hear "pair them with a pistol shrimp" a lot. This species can sometimes cohabitate with a pistol, but it is not as bulletproof as the classic watchman goby setups. If you try it, give the shrimp plenty of rubble and do not assume they will instantly bond. Some do, some just coexist awkwardly.

What to feed them

This fish lives on small meaty stuff. In my tanks, the best results came from feeding small portions often, especially the first month. A fat lanceolate shrimpgoby is a different fish than a skinny one - way bolder and out in the open more.

• Frozen: mysis (smaller pieces), finely chopped krill, calanus, enriched brine shrimp, and reef plankton blends.
• Live (great for new arrivals): live brine (enriched), copepods, small live mysids if you can get them.
• Prepared: some will take tiny pellets, but do not count on it at first. Use pellets as a later convenience, not the foundation.

I like to start new ones on a frozen mix twice a day plus one smaller snack feed. If your tank is lean (low pods, lots of competition), you may need 3-4 small feedings daily until they put on weight.

How they behave and who they get along with

They are peaceful and a little nervous. Expect lots of hovering, quick darts to the sand, and long pauses where they stare at you like they are deciding if you are a threat. Once they settle, they will claim a small patch and defend it from other bottom perchers.

• Good tankmates: calm reef fish that do not camp on the sand - small wrasses (not overly boisterous), cardinals, dartfish, peaceful anthias, smaller fairy/flasher wrasses.
• Usually fine: most shrimp and snails. Tiny ornamental shrimp may be at some risk if the goby is large and the shrimp is very small, but I have not seen them actively hunt cleaner shrimp.
• Avoid: aggressive dottybacks, pushy clownfish that claim the whole bottom corner, hawkfish, large wrasses that bully at feeding time, big sand-sifting gobies, and anything that outcompetes them for food.

If you want more than one, be careful. Two random individuals often scrap unless they are a known pair, and even then they need space and multiple shelter spots. I have had the best luck keeping a single specimen and building the stocking list around it.

Breeding tips

They are possible to spawn in captivity, but raising larvae is a whole different hobby. In a stable, well-fed tank you may see pair behavior: shared burrow area, tighter hovering together, and the fish disappearing into a hole for stretches. Eggs are usually laid in a burrow and guarded.

Common problems to watch for

• Not eating enough: the #1 issue. Watch the belly line. A healthy fish looks pleasantly rounded, not pinched behind the head.
• Getting outcompeted: they may look like they are "eating" during a feeding frenzy but still lose the calorie war over weeks.
• Jumping: startled by a lid slam, a sudden light change, or a chasing tankmate. If there is a gap, they will find it.
• Shipping damage and starvation: many arrive thin. Quarantine helps because you can feed heavy without competition.
• Crypt/velvet sensitivity: like most marine fish, they can get hit hard. If you see flashing, heavy breathing, or dusting, do not wait and hope.
• Sandbed irritation: very coarse substrate can lead to constant stress and hiding, and they never really settle in.

If you do the basics right - mature tank, fine sand, calm neighbors, and you personally make sure it gets food - they are incredibly rewarding. You will start noticing all their little routines, and that is what makes them addictive.