Barrier reef anemonefish
Amphiprion akindynos
The Barrier reef anemonefish exhibits a vibrant orange body with three distinctive white bands bordered by black, and has a rounded snout.
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About the Barrier reef anemonefish
This is one of the cooler Great Barrier Reef clowns - orange-brown with two crisp white bars edged in black and that pale tail. Give it a spot to claim (ideally with an anemone or at least a comfy coral substitute) and it will settle in hard, pair up, and act like the little boss of its corner.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
10.3 cm SL
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Beginner
Min Tank Size
30 gallons
Lifespan
10-15 years
Origin
Western Pacific: Great Barrier Reef and Coral Sea (eastern Australia), northern New South Wales; New Caledonia and Loyalty Islands; reported from Tonga
Diet
Omnivore - pellets/flakes plus frozen foods; will also graze algae and pick at small meaty bits
Water Parameters
24-27°C
8.1-8.4
8-12 dGH
Need a heater for this species?
This species needs 24-27°C in a 30 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give them space: 30 gallons is acceptable for a single fish, but plan 40–55+ gallons for a pair, with ample rockwork for territories.
- Keep salinity steady around 1.025-1.026 and temps 76-80F; they get cranky fast when salinity swings from sloppy top-offs.
- They do best in reef-safe water: ammonia/nitrite at 0, nitrate ideally under ~20 ppm, and decent flow so food and gunk do not just sit.
- Feed small amounts 1-2 times a day: mix pellets, mysis, chopped shrimp, and some spirulina or algae-based food so they do not get skinny or fade out.
- They are generally chill with other community reef fish, but they will bully other clowns (especially similar-looking ones) and can harass timid gobies/blennies if the tank is tight.
- If you want an anemone, add it only to a mature, stable system (ideally 6–12+ months). Entacmaea quadricolor (bubble‑tip) is a common and natural host for this species; never force hosting.
- Breeding is pretty doable: a bonded pair lays orange eggs on a rock near their host, and the male fans them; if you see cleaning and lots of pacing, a spawn is coming.
- Watch for Brooklynella hostilis (“clownfish disease”) and marine ich; rapid breathing and excess mucus are red flags. Quarantine and proper acclimation are strongly recommended.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Fairy wrasses (Cirrhilabrus) in spacious tanks; use caution with Sixline Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), which often becomes aggressive—especially in smaller, crowded systems.
- Reef-safe gobies and blennies - watchman goby, tailspot blenny, bicolor blenny. These guys hug the rocks and sand and usually ignore the clowns, so there is not much drama.
- Cardinals and chromis - banggai cardinals or a small group of green chromis. Good midwater companions that are not too pushy, and they can take a bit of clown attitude without melting down.
- Peaceful tangs in a big enough tank - like a kole tang or tomini tang. They are active algae pickers and generally do not care about the clown's host zone.
- Dwarf angels with a bit of swagger - coral beauty or flame angel. Not a guarantee in every tank, but in my experience they usually coexist fine with akindynos as long as there is rockwork and everyone has space.
- Shrimp and cleanup crew are usually fine - cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, snails, hermits. The clowns may posture but typically do not hunt them like a predator would.
Avoid
- Other clownfish or additional pairs—keep only one pair per tank due to territorial aggression.
- Really aggressive fish that will not back off - damsels (esp. domino/three-stripe), bigger dottybacks, or a trigger. Those turn the tank into a constant turf war.
- Bullies that camp the same rock holes - big hawkfish or meaner basslets in tight tanks. If they claim the same corner as the clowns, somebody is getting chased every day.
- Slow, timid fish that cannot handle being harassed - firefish, small assessors, or shy dartfish. The clowns are not pure evil, but a bonded pair will absolutely run these guys into hiding.
Where they come from
Barrier reef anemonefish (Amphiprion akindynos) are from the Great Barrier Reef and nearby parts of the Coral Sea. In the wild they hang around lagoons and reef slopes, usually tucked into a host anemone and defending it like they own the place.
They look a lot like some other clowns at a glance, but you will usually notice the darker body tone (especially as they mature) and those clean white bars. Classic reef fish with classic clownfish attitude.
Setting up their tank
Think "stable reef tank" more than "clownfish bowl." They are hardy once settled, but they do not love big swings in salinity or temperature. A 20-30 gallon can work for a pair, but if you want an anemone or a community, you will be happier starting around 40 gallons or more.
- Tank size: 20-30 gallons for a pair (fish-only), 40+ gallons if you want an anemone and extra tankmates
- Temperature: 24-26 C / 75-79 F
- Salinity: 1.024-1.026 SG (pick a number and keep it steady)
- pH: around 8.1-8.4
- Flow: moderate; give them calmer pockets to hang out in
- Filtration: decent skimmer helps, especially if you feed heavy
Aquascape-wise, give them a "home base" area. A little cave, a rock overhang, or even a corner with a torch coral or leather coral (if you are not doing an anemone) gives them a spot to claim. They settle faster when they can pick a territory.
If you are planning on a host anemone, get the tank mature first. I would rather wait a few months than watch a new anemone slowly melt in a fresh tank and crash the system.
They do not need an anemone to be happy, but they will absolutely "host" something if the mood hits: powerhead guards, a return nozzle, a corner of the glass, your favorite coral. If you want to steer that behavior, place a likely host (like a big toadstool leather) where you would not mind them hanging out all day.
What to feed them
These guys eat like most clownfish: basically anything meaty that fits in their mouth. The trick is variety and not dumping food in so fast that it all blasts into the overflow.
- Staple: quality marine pellets or small granules (I like a mix of sizes)
- Frozen: mysis, brine (as a treat), chopped krill, marine mix
- Boosters: occasional finely chopped shrimp or clam, and a bit of spirulina-based food now and then
- Frequency: 1-2 small feedings a day is plenty for most tanks
Watch the shy one in a pair. The dominant fish can hog food. I feed a little on one side of the tank, then a little on the other, so the smaller fish actually gets its share.
How they behave and who they get along with
Barrier reef anemonefish are not the mellowest clowns. A bonded pair is usually fine, but once they decide a corner is theirs, they will let everyone know. Expect lunging, nipping, and "charging" your hand during maintenance if you get too close to their spot.
- Best kept as: a single fish, or a bonded pair
- Good tankmates: peaceful to semi-peaceful reef fish that can handle a little attitude (gobies, blennies, many wrasses, tangs in larger tanks)
- Use caution with: timid fish that hang near their territory, and slow eaters
- Avoid: mixing with other clownfish species in smaller systems (fighting is common), and adding a third clown to a pair (usually ends badly)
Do not buy two random "same size" clowns and assume they will pair. With Amphiprion, size difference matters. Pick one larger and one noticeably smaller, or buy a known pair.
If you keep them with an anemone, they can get even more territorial, especially once they start laying eggs. Plan your rockwork so you can work in the tank without putting your arm right over their nest site.
Breeding tips
If you keep a stable pair and feed them well, breeding is very doable. They usually pick a flat surface near their host (or their chosen corner) and clean it like they are prepping a tiny patio. Then you will see a tight patch of orange eggs.
- Give them a nest site: a small ceramic tile or a smooth rock placed near their territory works great
- Conditioning: heavier feeding with varied frozen foods helps
- Spawning cadence: once they get going, you may see clutches every couple of weeks
- Egg care: the male does most of the fanning and cleaning - try not to stress them during this time
Raising the babies is the hard part. You need live foods (rotifers first, then baby brine), a separate rearing setup, and time. If you just want to enjoy the behavior, letting the tank eat the larvae is normal in a community reef.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with these clowns come from stress, swings, or bad introductions rather than them being delicate fish.
- Brooklynella ("clownfish disease"): heavy slime coat, fast breathing, refusing food - moves quickly and needs fast action
- Marine ich: white spots and scratching, often after a temp/salinity swing or new fish addition
- Uronema: more common in some captive systems; can show as red sores or rapid decline
- Fin damage: from pair fights or being bullied during introduction
- Anemone problems: wandering anemone can sting corals or get into pumps, and a dying anemone can foul the tank
Quarantine new arrivals if you can, especially clownfish. I have seen Brooklynella wipe out a pair in days. A basic QT and a plan for treatment is a lot less painful than trying to treat a whole reef tank.
Also keep an eye on aggression as they mature. A pair that was "fine" in a 20 gallon can turn spicy once they claim the whole tank. If you notice one fish getting pinned in a corner, torn fins, or not eating, be ready to separate or re-home one before it turns into a loss.
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