Spikey bass

Where they come from

Spikey bass are a northern Australia specialty, with records along WA, NT, and QLD coasts and nearby waters. Think sand and rubble near reefs, often a bit deeper than your typical reef fish. They cruise at dusk, then loaf in cover during the day. You do not see them in shops often, which is part of the challenge.

Setting up their tank

Plan for a very large FOWLR system. Mine lived in a 750-gallon setup with an 8 x 3 ft footprint. They are not hyperactive, but they are bulky and appreciate room to turn and a clear runway along the sand.

• Footprint first: 8 ft length and 30-36 in width is a good starting point for an adult.
• Rockwork: heavy, stable caves and overhangs with an open sandy front. Put rock on eggcrate or PVC supports so nothing shifts.
• Lighting: moderate to dim. They are not coral showpieces and prefer calmer light.
• Flow: steady, not blasting. Gyres set low to mid are fine; keep surface rippling for oxygen.
• Filtration: big skimmer, oversized bio capacity, and lots of mechanical export. They are messy eaters.
• Lid: tight-fitting. Big fish can spook and jump.

• Temp: 24-27 C (75-81 F)
• Salinity: 1.023-1.026
• pH: 8.0-8.3
• Ammonia/Nitrite: 0
• Nitrate: under 20-30 ppm
• Oxygen: high, especially after big meals

What to feed them

They are ambush predators that take fish and crustaceans. Getting a new one to eat is half the battle. Start with movement, then work toward prepared foods.

• First week: offer live ghost shrimp or gut-loaded mollies if it will not take frozen. Switch quickly to frozen once it recognizes tongs.
• Staples: pieces of marine-origin fish, prawn, squid, scallop, clam. Vary it.
• Training: use feeding tongs and wiggle the food near its cave. Once it locks on, it is easy.
• Add-ons: soak a couple meals per week in vitamins (including B1) and omega-3s.
• Schedule: juveniles small portions once daily; adults every 2-3 days. Big meals rot in the gut and foul water.

How they behave and who they get along with

Calm, watchful, and very good at pretending to be a rock. They will not chase much, but anything that fits in the mouth is fair game. They usually ignore large, deep-bodied fish that do not pester them.

• Keep one per tank. More than one tends to end in staring contests and body checks.
• Tankmates that have worked: large angels, bigger tangs (Naso, Acanthurus if not overly mean), rabbitfish, large squirrelfish, and robust butterflies.
• Tankmates to skip: triggers and big nippy wrasses (they pick at fins), puffers that test spines, very aggressive groupers that outcompete at feeding.
• Inverts: ornamental shrimp and crabs are snacks. Snails and urchins are usually ignored.

Breeding tips

Not something you will do at home. As far as hobby records go, there are no confirmed captive pairings or spawns. They are likely pelagic spawners needing huge space and seasonal cues. Focus on long-term husbandry, not pairing.

Common problems to watch for

• Refusing food: new imports often sulk. Keep lights low, offer moving foods, and do not hover at the glass. Patience plus tongs usually wins.
• Internal parasites: stringy white feces or weight loss despite eating. Run praziquantel and metronidazole in quarantine.
• Flukes and marine ich: heavy breathing, flashing, salt-like spots. A proper 4-6 week QT saves headaches.
• Barotrauma from deep collection: positive buoyancy or a distended belly. Work with a reputable supplier; do not self-needle the swim bladder.
• Abrasion and bacterial infections: they wedge into rocks and can scuff themselves. Keep water clean; treat in QT if wounds cloud up.
• HLLE-style erosion: shows up with poor diet and carbon dust. Rinse carbon, vary foods, and keep vitamins in the rotation.
• Water quality swings: big predators spike nitrates and deplete oxygen after large meals. Keep up on export and aeration.