Taiwanese Razorfish

Where they come from

Taiwanese Razorfish (Iniistius evides) are sand-diving wrasses from the western Pacific, especially around Taiwan and the Ryukyu Islands. You find them over open sand and rubble near reefs. They bolt into the sand like a javelin the second something spooks them, which is half the charm of keeping one.

Setting up their tank

Give them room and a safe runway of sand. Mine settled best in a 4-foot tank, but they really stretch out in a 5- or 6-foot footprint. Figure 75 gallons as a bare minimum for a single, with 120+ being comfortable for an adult.

• Sand bed: 2-3 inches of fine aragonite (sugar-size). Coarse sand or crushed coral will scratch them when they dive.
• Open area: Leave a clear patch of sand at the front. Keep sharp rock edges away from their landing zone.
• Rockwork: Build stable, bottomed-out structures so their digging cannot undermine anything. I set rock on the glass, then add sand.
• Lid: Tight, gap-free cover. They jump hard when startled.
• Flow and light: Moderate flow, not blasting the sand bed. Normal reef lighting is fine; dim the lights the first few days.
• Parameters: 76-79 F, 1.024-1.026 salinity, pH around 8.1-8.4. They appreciate a mature system (6+ months) with microfauna.
• Acclimation: Lights low, slow drip. Expect them to vanish into the sand right away and sometimes for a day or two after each spook.

What to feed them

They are meat eaters that wake up hungry. New arrivals often ignore pellets, so start with movement and smell, then wean to easier foods.

• Starter foods: Live blackworms, live enriched brine, or freshly cracked clams on the half shell. PE mysis usually gets a response.
• Staples: Frozen mysis, chopped shrimp or clam, krill bits, LRS-type blends. Mine took to Nutramar ova and masstick easily.
• Dry food: Once settled, many accept small sinking pellets (TDO, NLS). Offer after a few weeks of successful frozen feeding.
• Feeding pattern: 2-3 small meals a day. They burn calories cruising and bury early in the evening, so feed earlier rather than late.

How they behave and who they get along with

Shy at first, goofy once comfy. They cruise low over the sand, pick at small inverts, and disappear into the bed at any rude noise. Mine mellowed after a month and stopped panicking at feeding time.

• Generally safe with corals. They do not nip polyps, but they may toss sand onto low frags.
• Risk to small crustaceans. Tiny shrimp and very small crabs can become snacks. Larger cleaners usually fine, but not guaranteed.
• Good tankmates: Peaceful tangs, fairy/flasher wrasses, anthias, gobies, peaceful angels, chromis, clownfish.
• Avoid: Aggressive triggers, large puffers, groupers, dottybacks with attitude, and highly territorial wrasses. Bullies will keep them buried.
• One per tank is simplest. A male-female pair might work in a large tank, but mixing with similar razorfish can lead to sparring.

Breeding tips

They are pelagic spawners and switch sex like many wrasses. In home aquaria, breeding is not happening. You would need a huge system, a group, and specialized larval rearing for tiny planktonic fry. Interesting to watch courtship in the wild, but not a project for our tanks.

Common problems to watch for

• Refusing food: Try live foods first, then strong-smelling frozen. Feed with pumps off and low light. Be patient the first week.
• Burying for days: Normal after a scare or move. If it becomes constant, look for bullies or too-bright lighting.
• Snout abrasions: Usually from diving into coarse substrate or hitting glass. Switch to finer sand and keep a clear runway.
• Jumping: Secure the lid. They launch at dusk and during tank maintenance.
• Internal parasites/flukes: Common on wild wrasses. Praziquantel works well once they are eating. If you run copper for ich/velvet, keep it at stable levels and watch appetite.
• Weight loss in a busy reef: They are not great at competing with rocket-fast feeders. Target feed and consider a slightly heavier morning meal.