Piscora
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Sharphead perch

Lepidoperca magna

AI-generated illustration of Sharphead perch
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Sharphead perch exhibit a streamlined body with a silvery sheen and prominent dark stripes along the sides, distinguishing them in their habitat.

Marine

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About the Sharphead perch

Sharphead perch is a deepwater basslet from Australia and New Zealand that hangs out on seamount slopes hundreds of meters down. It tops out around 27 cm and would want cool, dim, rockwork-heavy seawater, so it is really a public-aquarium fish rather than a home-tank candidate.

Quick Facts

Size

27 cm SL

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Expert

Min Tank Size

180 gallons

Lifespan

Unknown (likely 10+ years)

Origin

Southwest Pacific

Diet

Carnivore - likely small fishes and crustaceans; in captivity would take meaty marine foods (shrimp, fish, chopped shellfish)

Water Parameters

Temperature

14-18°C

pH

8-8.4

Hardness

20-100 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 14-18°C in a 180 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Run this fish in a chilled temperate setup: 150+ gallons, 72+ inches long, with a chiller holding 12-18 C (54-64 F), dim lighting, and big caves/overhangs to lurk in.
  • Keep salinity at 1.025-1.026, pH 8.0-8.3, nitrate under 20 ppm, and crank oxygen with strong surface agitation and decent flow without blasting its hideouts.
  • Acclimate slow and dark; deepwater-caught fish can show barotrauma (head-up, trouble staying down) after shipping, so get an experienced hand to vent if needed and do not DIY poke jobs.
  • Start feeding with live or very tempting foods (live shrimp, small baitfish) to wake the hunt drive, then wean to chopped prawn, squid, mussel, and marine fish fillet; 2-4 modest meals per week, vitamin soak, and do not rely on thiaminase-heavy silversides only.
  • Anything bite-size is food, so skip small fish and all crustaceans; choose sturdy, similarly sized temperate tankmates and avoid psycho bullies like big triggers or massive groupers.
  • They are crepuscular ambushers that spook easily, so keep lighting low, give multiple bolt-holes, and use a tight lid because they will launch when startled.
  • Quarantine 4-6 weeks and plan a praziquantel round for flukes; these guys crash fast with ammonia or low O2, so run a mature biofilter and avoid big temperature swings.
  • No home breeding records I trust; assume wild-caught only and keep one per tank unless you have a truly huge system with lots of cover.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Big, assertive grazers like tangs and foxfaces - fast, deep-bodied, and not bite-sized
  • Hearty, fast wrasses (Halichoeres, Thalassoma types) that dont spook easily
  • Rock-perching hawkfish that can stare right back and hold a perch without drama
  • Squirrelfish and soldierfish - tough, spiny, and usually ignored
  • Bottom-foraging goatfish - busy noses down, too stocky to be viewed as food
  • Larger angelfish (Pomacanthus, Holacanthus) in a roomy tank with multiple caves

Avoid

  • Anything bite-sized - little gobies, dartfish, small anthias, cardinals - they look like snacks
  • Fin-nippy bruisers like triggers and big puffers that will harass and outcompete at feeding time
  • Very slow or flowy-finned fish like lionfish or juvenile batfish that get bumped and stressed
  • Similar-shaped predators (groupers, big hamlets) that want the same caves and will feud

Where they come from

Sharphead perch (Lepidoperca magna) are deep-reef sea perches from the temperate South Pacific, most often reported around southern Australia and New Zealand. They hang around steep rocky structure well below typical diving depths, which is why you almost never see them in shops. Cool water, dim light, and lots of oxygen is their world.

Tank setup

Plan big and cold. Mine settled in a 700 L system with a chiller and stayed rock-solid once I stopped trying to treat it like a tropical bass. Think quiet, shadowy ledges and high oxygen.

  • Volume: 500 L minimum for a subadult, 700-1000 L for an adult. They are stocky, turn slowly, and appreciate footprint over height.
  • Temperature: 12-16 C long term. They tolerate up to ~18 C briefly, but activity and appetite are better on the cooler side.
  • Salinity: 1.024-1.026. Keep it steady. pH 8.0-8.3.
  • Flow: Strong, well-oxygenated flow with some calmer pockets. Point one or two nozzles across the front to create a gentle gyre.
  • Lighting: Dim. Think dawn/dusk. I ran a short photoperiod with shaded overhangs. Bright reef lights make them skittish.
  • Aquascape: Big caves, vertical faces, and shaded ledges. They like to back into a cave and watch. Leave open sand or low rock in front for feeding.
  • Filtration: Oversized skimmer, big bio capacity, and a chiller you trust. These fish are messy eaters. UV helps keep the water polished.
  • Lid: Tight-fitting covers. They lunge at food and can hit the surface hard.

I put a dark PVC elbow as a "home cave" right where I wanted the fish to perch. It cut the pacing in half during the first week and made target feeding easy.

A chiller is not optional. Fans will not keep a big marine tank at 12-16 C consistently.

What to feed them

They are carnivores that key on movement. Expect to start with live or very tempting foods, then wean to thawed.

  • Starter foods: Live gut-loaded ghost shrimp, small live marine crabs, or livebearers acclimated to salt (temporary only). Use sparingly as a bridge.
  • Staples once weaned: Thawed marine-origin foods like prawns, squid strips, silversides, lancefish, and chunks of marine fish fillet.
  • Technique: Use long tongs and wiggle the piece in front of the cave. Feed at dusk or under very dim light at first.
  • Frequency: Juveniles every other day; adults 2-3 times per week. Better to offer a few solid bites than to stuff them.
  • Supplements: Rotate items and soak a couple meals per week in a HUFA/vitamin product. Avoid relying on thiaminase-heavy fish (e.g., only silversides) long term.

If it ignores food, leave the pumps on. The flow makes strips of squid or prawn look alive and usually gets a reaction.

How they behave and who they get along with

Sharphead perch are deliberate, cave-hovering ambush predators. Mine was shy for two weeks, then turned into a very predictable dusk-time hunter. Not aggressive without reason, but they will eat anything bite-sized.

  • Good tankmates: Other coolwater, similarly sized, non-nippy fishes that do not blitz all the food (larger scorpionfish, coldwater hawkfish, gentle temperate wrasses).
  • Questionable: Assertive groupers, triggerfish, large puffers. They outcompete or harass.
  • No-go: Small fish, shrimp, and crabs. They are food.
  • Social: Best kept singly. More than one will likely posture and stress unless you have a very large system and they can ignore each other.

They get bolder under red light. A dim red feeding light helped mine relax and eat within the first few days.

Breeding tips

Realistically, there are no hobbyist breeding reports for Lepidoperca magna. Like many serranids, they likely form pairs or small groups and broadcast spawn in deep, cool water with seasonal cues. You would need a large, chilled, dimly lit system and simulated seasonal changes to even explore pairing. For now, enjoy them as a display fish and put your energy into stable conditions and a strong feeding routine.

Common problems to watch for

  • Barotrauma in new arrivals: Wild-caught deep fish can arrive with bulging eyes, buoyancy problems, or a protruding stomach. If you see this at the shop, pass. Recovery is hit-or-miss.
  • Refusing food: Very common the first week. Dim the lights, offer smaller moving pieces, and try at dusk. Live ghost shrimp can kick-start interest.
  • Overheating: Anything above ~18 C for long stretches leads to heavy breathing and loss of appetite.
  • Low oxygen: They perk up with strong aeration. Keep surface agitation high and clean the skimmer cup often.
  • Parasites: Flukes and worms are not rare. A proper, chilled quarantine with praziquantel has saved me headaches.
  • Injury from feeding strikes: They hit hard. Use tongs and give them room so they do not face-plant into rock.
  • Nutritional issues: Monotonous diets (only silversides) can cause weight loss over time. Rotate foods and add vitamins.

Do not attempt copper or other meds at tropical doses without a chilled quarantine and close observation. Metabolism is slower in coldwater fish; go by tested concentrations and give them oxygen-rich water.

Quarantine in a dim, bare-bottom chilled tank with a few snug PVC hides. Get them eating reliably before they see any competition in the display.

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