Lyretail dottyback
Pseudochromis steenei
The Lyretail dottyback exhibits a vibrant blue body with a distinctive lyre-shaped caudal fin, making it easily recognizable in reef habitats.
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About the Lyretail dottyback
Pseudochromis steenei is a punchy little reef dottyback from Indonesia and northern Australia that loves living in the rockwork and claiming a cave as its own. Its lyre-shaped tail and bold purple-yellow look really stand out, but its attitude can be bigger than its body, so tankmate choice matters.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
12 cm
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Intermediate
Min Tank Size
30 gallons
Lifespan
3-6 years
Origin
Western Central Pacific (Indonesia and northern Australia)
Diet
Carnivore - meaty foods like mysis, brine shrimp, chopped seafood, quality pellets
Water Parameters
24-26°C
8.1-8.4
8-12 dGH
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Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give it lots of rockwork with tight caves and swim-throughs - they claim a hole and will defend it hard, especially in smaller tanks. A lid helps because they can jump when spooked.
- Keep salinity stable around 1.020-1.025 and temp around 76-79F; they get cranky fast with swings. Aim for low nitrate (roughly under 20 ppm) and decent oxygen/flow so they do not sulk in the rocks.
- Feed like a mini-predator: small meaty stuff (mysis, brine, chopped shrimp, quality pellets) 1-2 times a day. If it is new and picky, start with frozen and mix in pellets once it is eating reliably.
- They can be a bully in a 30-40g, so do not pair with timid gobies/firefish unless the tank is bigger with lots of cover. They usually do fine with tougher fish like clowns, wrasses, and tangs that will not let themselves get pushed around.
- Avoid other dottybacks and similar-shaped cave fish (grammas, some hawkfish) unless you have a big tank and you add them carefully. If you want a pair, buy two very different sizes and be ready to separate if the smaller gets pinned.
- Shrimp are a coin flip: big cleaner shrimp are usually fine, but tiny sexy/pom-pom shrimp and small ornamental shrimp often turn into snacks. Snails and most hermits are usually fine.
- Watch for them becoming a 'rock bully' that blocks food from others - feeding with a turkey baster near their cave helps. If they start shredding a tankmate's fins, rearrange a bit of rock or pull the dottyback before it escalates.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Clownfish (ocellaris/percula types) - they can hold their own, and the dottyback usually just does the usual cave-guarding without turning the whole tank into a war zone
- Banggai or pajama cardinalfish - calm midwater fish that are not tiny enough to look like lunch, and they do not get in the dottyback's face
- Bristletooth tangs (kole, tomini) in a decent sized tank - active algae pickers that mostly ignore the rock holes the dottyback claims
- Fairy or flasher wrasses (like a fairy wrasse, carpenters flasher) - fast, alert swimmers that can dodge attitude, and they do not compete for the same little cave
- Dwarf angels (coral beauty, flame) - similar confidence level, usually works if the tank has lots of rock and you do not cram them together in a small box
- Blennies like tailspot or lawnmower - generally fine as long as there are multiple perches and caves so the dottyback cannot pin them into one corner
Avoid
- Tiny shrimp gobies and other very small, timid gobies - the dottyback is a sneaky hunter and can harass them nonstop or straight up eat the really small ones
- Firefish (dartfish) - too shy and hover-y, and a dottyback loves to run them back into the rocks until they stop coming out to eat
- Other dottybacks or very similar cave-territory fish (including adding a second Pseudochromis) - tends to turn into constant turf fights unless you have a big tank and a plan
- Small ornamental shrimp (e.g., sexy shrimp) - may be eaten
Where they come from
Lyretail dottybacks (Pseudochromis steenei) come from reefy rubble zones in the Indo-Pacific, where there are lots of little crevices and overhangs to duck into. That whole lifestyle shows up in the tank: they want a home base, they like to patrol it, and they feel safest when they can vanish into the rockwork on command.
Setting up their tank
Think "rockwork first" with this fish. If you give them a tight maze of holes and ledges, they settle in fast and you see way less attitude. In a bare, open scape they tend to act like they own the whole tank because there is nowhere to break line-of-sight.
- Tank size: I would start at 30 gallons for a single fish. Bigger helps a lot if you want other semi-spicy tankmates.
- Rockwork: build a few distinct cave areas so other fish can avoid the dottyback's favorite corner.
- Flow: moderate is fine. They are perch-and-dart fish, not open-water cruisers.
- Lighting: whatever your reef runs. They do not care much as long as there are shaded spots.
- Cover: keep a lid. Dottybacks can jump, especially right after introduction or during chasing.
If you can, add the dottyback after the more peaceful fish are established. When they go in first, they often decide the whole rock pile is their turf.
Acclimation-wise, I treat them like any other dottyback: slow drip, lights low for a few hours, and feed a little the same day. They usually start hunting around within minutes once they find a cave.
What to feed them
They are eager, meaty eaters. Mine have always eaten like little wolves, and that makes them pretty forgiving as long as you give them variety and do not let the dominant fish hog everything.
- Staples: frozen mysis, brine (better if enriched), chopped krill, finely chopped shrimp/scallop.
- Small foods they love: calanus, copepod blends, finely chopped clam.
- Pellets: most will take small marine pellets once they recognize them as food (soak briefly at first if needed).
- Feeding rhythm: small portions 1-2 times a day. They do better with regular meals than huge dumps of food.
If your dottyback is shy at first, target feed near its cave with a turkey baster. Once it learns the baster equals dinner, it will show up front and center.
How they behave and who they get along with
Lyretail dottybacks are gorgeous, smart, and kind of bossy. Not "tank terrorist" level like the worst dottybacks can be, but they will absolutely pick on timid fish that hang around their rock.
They do best with tankmates that can handle a little posturing. If you keep them with very peaceful nano fish, you will spend your time wondering why everyone is hiding.
- Generally good tankmates: clowns, most wrasses (especially active ones), dwarf angels, tangs (in appropriate tanks), foxfaces, cardinals (in larger tanks with lots of rock).
- Use caution: firefish, dartfish, small gobies that perch in the same caves, small assessors, very timid blennies.
- Often a bad idea: other dottybacks in small tanks, very similar-shaped fish that want the same crevices, and tiny ornamental shrimp.
They are hit-or-miss with ornamental shrimp. Some ignore cleaner shrimp, but I have seen dottybacks (including Pseudochromis species) harass or eat small peppermint and sexy shrimp. If you care about the shrimp, assume the dottyback might snack on it.
Reef safety with corals is usually a non-issue. The real "reef risk" is them hunting pods and tiny crustaceans, and occasionally bullying fish so they do not come out to eat.
Breeding tips
They can spawn in captivity, and the behavior is fun to watch if you ever end up with a bonded pair. Like other pseudochromis, they are cave spawners. The pair will pick a tight nook and guard it.
- Pairing: hardest part. Two random individuals may fight. Best odds are a known pair or starting with juveniles and letting one become dominant.
- Spawning site: a small cave or a short length of PVC tucked into rock works well.
- Conditioning: feed heavier for a couple weeks with lots of meaty frozen foods.
- After eggs: parents will guard them. If you want to raise larvae, you will need a separate larval setup and live foods (rotifers, then copepods/Artemia).
Most hobbyists stop at "cool, they spawned" because raising marine larvae is its own hobby. Still worth knowing they will lay eggs in a cave so you do not panic when you see them defending a hole.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have had (or seen friends have) are not because the fish is delicate. They are usually because dottybacks are stubborn little predators with a big personality in a small body.
- Bullying: the big one. Watch for nipped fins, fish that stop coming out, or a single corner of the tank being "owned." Rearranging rockwork can reset territories.
- Jumping: especially right after adding them or during chasing. A tight lid saves fish.
- Feeding aggression: they can outcompete shy fish. Feed in two spots or distract the dottyback first.
- New-fish disease: they can still bring in ich or velvet. Quarantine is worth it if you have other fish you care about.
- Mysteriously missing microfauna: they hunt pods hard. If you rely on pods for a mandarin, plan accordingly.
If you see the dottyback repeatedly charging a specific fish, do not wait weeks hoping it "settles down." In my experience, it usually escalates. Use an acclimation box, rock rearrange, or be ready to move one of them.
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