Redrump blenny
Xenomedea rhodopyga
The Redrump blenny features a slender body with distinct red markings on the tail and a predominantly brownish-grey coloration.
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About the Redrump blenny
This is a tiny, bottom-hugging blenny from the Gulf of California that lives around rocky, weedy reef and tidepool habitat. The cool bit is how it spends its time tucked into rocks and algae, picking at little meaty critters, and it can show a neat pinkish body with darker bars and that red area near the rear that the name is calling out.
Also known as
Quick Facts
Size
6.5 cm
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Difficulty
Advanced
Min Tank Size
20 gallons
Lifespan
2-5 years
Origin
Eastern Pacific (Gulf of California)
Diet
Carnivore - small meaty foods (worms, tiny crustaceans), frozen foods
Water Parameters
20-27°C
8-8.4
8-12 dGH
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This species needs 20-27°C in a 20 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.
Calculate heater sizeCare Notes
- Give it a mature reef tank with lots of tight rockwork and little bolt-holes - they like to wedge in and will stress out in open, bare setups.
- Keep salinity steady around 1.025-1.026 and temp 76-79F; they get cranky fast with swingy salinity or quick temp bumps.
- Feed like an algae-grazer that still wants protein: nori on a clip plus small meaty stuff (mysis, chopped shrimp, enriched brine) 1-2x a day, and target-feed if tankmates are pigs.
- They can be territorial with similar-shaped blennies and tiny gobies - skip other blennies in small tanks and watch for bullying in the rockwork.
- Best neighbors are chill reef fish that will not camp on its favorite hole (chromis, smaller wrasses, cardinals); avoid aggressive dottybacks, hawkfish, and big damsels that will keep it pinned down.
- If your tank is too clean and algae-free, it can slowly starve even if it pecks all day - keep some natural film algae going or rotate in algae-based foods regularly.
- Watch for torn mouths and scraped sides from rock-squeezing or fights; if you see frayed fins, rearrange a bit of rock to reset territories and make more hiding spots.
- Breeding can happen if you get a compatible pair - the male usually guards eggs in a crevice, so do not blast the nest area with flow or let crabs/shrimp patrol that spot.
Compatibility
Good Tankmates
- Clownfish (Ocellaris or Percula) - they hold their own, stay in their lane, and usually ignore a redrump blenny once everyone is settled in
- Small gobies (neon goby, clown goby, watchman goby) - peaceful, perch-y types that do not compete hard for the same little rock cave
- Blennies that are NOT similar-looking (like a tailspot blenny) - can work if the tank has lots of rock and multiple bolt-holes, but watch for squabbling early on
- Fairy or flasher wrasses - active midwater fish that do not care about the blenny's turf and help keep the vibe from getting too tense
- Cardinals (Banggai or pajama) - slow but not flashy, and they mostly hover in the open so the blenny is less likely to fixate on them
- Peaceful reef basslets like a chalk bass - similar toughness level, usually just do their own thing as long as there are plenty of hiding spots
Avoid
- Other blennies and similar perch-y fish (lawnmower blenny, bicolor blenny) - these are the classic fights, they bicker over the same rocks and can go full grumpy roommate fast
- Dottybacks (especially orchid and neon) - they are already pushy, and combined with a semi-aggressive blenny you can end up with nonstop rockwork drama
- Damsels (domino, blue devil, most Chrysiptera once they mature) - they do not back down, and the blenny will keep getting dared into fights
- Hawkfish - perch hunters that like the same lookout spots and can bully or harass smaller blenny-type fish when they feel like it
Where they come from
Redrump blennies (Xenomedea rhodopyga) are little rock-huggers from the eastern Pacific side of things. You see them associated with shallow, rocky reef and rubble zones where there are tons of cracks, empty shells, and little burrows to duck into. That background matters because in the tank they want the same deal: hard structure, real hiding spots, and a steady supply of surface growth to pick at.
This is one of those blennies that behaves like a micro-predator that also grazes. If you set them up like a generic community fish, you will be scratching your head wondering why they sulk or starve.
Setting up their tank
I would not keep this species in anything smaller than a mature 20-30 gallon, and bigger is easier. They are tiny, but they act like they own a few square feet of reef, and they get braver (and eat better) when they have a home base they can defend.
Build the aquascape with lots of tight holes and short tunnels. Think "blenny-sized". A few small caves, a chunk of branching rock, and a rubble corner goes a long way. If you give them one obvious prime hole, they will usually claim it and settle down fast.
- Mature tank: I like 6+ months old with visible microfauna and some film algae
- Rockwork with crevices: multiple bolt-holes so they can retreat without getting trapped
- Moderate flow: enough to keep food moving, not a sandblaster aimed at their favorite perch
- Stable salinity and temp: keep swings small, they do not love yo-yo parameters
- Lid/cover: blennies can launch when spooked, especially new arrivals
A little "ugly" is your friend here. Let one rock face stay a bit algae-dusted and let pods live in the rubble. This fish uses the tank, not just the water column.
What to feed them
Getting them eating is the whole game. The ones I have had did best with frequent small feedings and a mix of meaty foods plus some grazing opportunities. If you only offer flakes once a day, they can look fine for a while and then slowly waste away.
Start with what they can sniff out easily: frozen foods with some scent. Once they recognize your feeding routine, you can broaden the menu.
- Frozen: mysis (small), chopped brine shrimp, finely chopped clam or mussel, roe if you can get it
- Live (great for new fish): live brine, copepods, blackworms if you have access and can rinse well
- Prepared: small sinking pellets (marine) once they accept non-moving food
- Grazing: they will pick at film algae and micro-stuff on rock, but do not count on that as the main diet
Target feeding helps a lot. Use a pipette or turkey baster and squirt a little cloud of food near their perch. After a week or two, many of them will rush out the second they see the baster.
Watch the belly, not just the "is it eating" moment. A redrump that is losing body mass needs more frequent meaty foods and less competition at feeding time.
How they behave and who they get along with
They are classic blenny attitude in a small package: perch, watch, dart, and defend a spot. Most of the time they are entertaining and bold, but they can be surprisingly spicy with other bottom-dwellers that want the same real estate.
In my experience, they do best with calm fish that stay in the water column and do not sit on the rockwork all day. If you pack the tank with other perchers, the redrump spends too much time hiding and not enough time eating.
- Good tankmates: small peaceful wrasses, chromis/anthias types, dartfish, small cardinalfish, mellow gobies that stick to sand more than rock
- Use caution: other blennies (often turns into a turf war), hawkfish (may bully), dottybacks (too pushy), aggressive damsels
- Risky: big crabs, large shrimp that steal food, any fish that relentlessly picks at perched fish
Avoid pairing with another hole-dweller unless the tank is big and the rockwork has clearly separated territories. Two fish fighting over the same crack will not sort it out politely.
Breeding tips
Breeding behavior is interesting if you like watching fish be fish. They are cave/spawn-site oriented, and the male will usually claim a hole and try to keep a female interested. You may see the male cleaning a spot, doing short little display dashes, and guarding the entrance more intensely.
Raising the babies is the hard part. The larvae are tiny and pelagic, so you are in rotifer-and-greenwater territory, and you need a separate larval setup with gentle flow. If you just want to observe spawning and guarding, that is doable in a display. If you want to rear them, plan it like a serious project.
- Give them a proper nest: narrow caves, empty shells, or a small length of PVC tucked into rock
- Feed heavy but keep water clean: conditioning adults usually means more food and more export
- If you see eggs: expect guarding and increased aggression around the nest
- For rearing: separate larval tank, rotifers ready, stable salinity, and patience
If you are not set up for larval rearing, do not feel bad. Most hobbyists enjoy the courtship and guarding and let the larvae become plankton snacks in the display.
Common problems to watch for
Most issues I have seen with redrump blennies come down to food and stress. They can arrive skinny, get outcompeted, or be harassed off the rockwork until they basically stop showing themselves.
- Slow starvation: looks "fine" at first, then the body narrows behind the head and the belly stays pinched
- Feeding competition: faster fish eat everything before the blenny commits
- Territory stress: constant chasing from another percher leads to hiding and weight loss
- Jumping: especially in the first week or after a scare
- Parasites on new arrivals: flashing, excess mucus, rapid breathing - quarantine helps a lot
A skinny new redrump blenny is a red flag. If it will not take frozen within a few days, move it to a quieter tank or breeder box and work on live foods. Waiting it out in a busy display usually ends badly.
If you can quarantine, do it. A calm QT with a couple of small caves, stable salinity, and target feeding is the difference between "disappears for weeks" and "perches out front waiting for food" with this fish.
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