Piscora
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No established common name

Zebrias maculosus

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Zebrias maculosus exhibits a streamlined body with distinct dark spots on a pale background, enhancing its camouflage in the aquatic environment.

Marine

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About the No established common name

Zebrias maculosus is a deepwater sole from the Arabian Sea off southwest India, and it is hardly ever seen even by scientists. It reaches about 12-13 cm standard length and lives down around 225-275 m where the water sits roughly 13-16 C, so it is not an aquarium fish unless you have a chilled marine setup.

Quick Facts

Size

12.8 cm SL (about 5 inches)

Temperament

Semi-aggressive

Difficulty

Expert

Min Tank Size

75 gallons

Lifespan

Unknown

Origin

South Asia - Arabian Sea (off southwest India)

Diet

Carnivore - benthic invertebrates (polychaetes, crustaceans), small fishes

Water Parameters

Temperature

13-16°C

pH

7.9-8.3

Hardness

300-400 dGH

Need a heater for this species?

This species needs 13-16°C in a 75 gallon tank. Use our heater calculator to find the right wattage.

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Care Notes

  • Give it a footprint tank, not a tall one - 40 breeder is the bare minimum, 75g is nicer, with 2-3 inches of fine sugar-grain aragonite sand and very little rock on the sand bed.
  • Keep water at 75-80 F, SG 1.024-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, ammonia/nitrite 0, nitrate under 15 ppm, and run decent aeration because they like oxygen but not blasting flow.
  • Use intake guards or foam on powerheads and skimmer intakes so it does not get pinned while buried.
  • Feed at dusk with a baster or tongs right to its nose - start with live mysids or enriched live brine, then wean to frozen mysis and finely chopped clam, shrimp, or fish over 2-3 weeks.
  • It will inhale small shrimp and nano fish, so tankmates should be midwater species too big to fit in its mouth; skip triggers, puffers, big wrasses, goatfish, and nippy crabs.
  • Only use fine sand; crushed coral and sharp substrates scrape their skin and lead to infections - lightly vacuum the top layer so old food does not rot.
  • Quarantine new specimens and plan on deworming (prazi works well); avoid copper meds on this scaleless fish unless you really know your dosing.
  • Breeding is not a thing in home tanks (pelagic larvae), so focus on fattening it up and low-stress housing; if it stops burying or pants on the surface, check oxygen and water quality right away.

Compatibility

Good Tankmates

  • Clownfish that mind their own anemone business - ocellaris and percs are great, they ignore the sandbed
  • Midwater grazers like tangs and rabbitfish that cruise all day and do not bother buried fish
  • Peaceful basslets and assessors (royal gramma, yellow assessor) that hang in the rockwork
  • Fairy and flasher wrasses that are plankton pickers, not sand pickers - just make sure you spot feed the sole
  • Butterflyfish and smaller angels that are not fixated on picking at other fish
  • Sturdier schooling fish like larger chromis or adult cardinals that are too big to be a midnight snack

Avoid

  • Triggers and big puffers - they nip, flip, and chew on flatfish
  • Picking wrasses like bird wrasse, Thalassoma types, and tuskfish that will harass a sand dweller
  • Moray eels and big scorpionfish or lionfish that can swallow slow bottom fish
  • Tiny gobies, blennies, or other petite sleepers that fit in the mouth - the sole will eat them after lights out

Where they come from

Zebrias maculosus is a right-eyed sole from the Indo-West Pacific. Think sandy flats next to reefs, seagrass beds, and quiet lagoons. They spend most of the day buried with just their eyes showing, then creep around at dusk looking for small crustaceans and fish.

Setting up their tank

Give them floor space before you give them height. A 75 gallon with a 48 x 18 inch footprint is my minimum for a single adult; bigger makes life easier. They are all about sand, quiet zones, and stable water.

  • Substrate: 2-3 inches of sugar-fine aragonite. Coarse sand or crushed coral will chew up their underside.
  • Aquascape: Build rock on the glass or on PVC supports, then add sand. Leave big open sand patches. A couple half-buried PVC elbows or low caves help them feel secure.
  • Flow and light: Gentle to moderate flow that does not blast the sand. Normal reef lighting is fine, but provide shaded areas.
  • Lid: Tight-fitting. Flatfish can and do launch themselves.
  • Parameters: 1.023-1.026 SG, 75-79 F, pH 8.1-8.4, low nutrients. They do best in mature, stable systems.
  • Filtration: Oversized skimmer and good mechanical filtration. Fine sand gets everywhere, so prefilter your pump intakes.

Quarantine 4-6 weeks with a container of fine sand in the QT. Get the fish reliably eating before it meets competition in the display.

Acclimate slowly, lights off. I like to dim the room and introduce them right onto the sand so they can bury immediately.

What to feed them

They hunt by smell and movement. New arrivals often ignore pellets and flakes, so plan on a weaning process.

  • Starter foods: Live blackworms, live grass/ghost shrimp, amphipods from a refugium. These kickstart the feeding response.
  • Next step: Frozen mysis, finely chopped prawn, clam, squid strips, and small pieces of marine fish. Soak in vitamins if you can.
  • How to offer: Feed at dusk with pumps off. Partially bury the food near the snout or wiggle it with tongs; they will pounce once they smell it.
  • Schedule: Juveniles most days in small portions. Adults 3-4 times per week. Aim for a slightly rounded belly after a meal, not a bulge.

Do not count on a new tank's pod population to feed this fish. Many starve that way. Have live or frozen meaty foods ready from day one.

How they behave and who they get along with

By day, they nap under the sand. By night, they cruise low and slow. They are peaceful toward fish that are too large to swallow, but anything bite-sized that sleeps on the sand is at risk.

  • Good tankmates: Midwater fish that ignore the sand-bed, like tangs, rabbitfish, larger clownfish, peaceful angels, and bigger anthias.
  • Use caution: Large wrasses may pester or flip them. Goatfish will compete and annoy them. Hawkfish are fine with the sole but will go after your shrimp too.
  • Avoid: Triggers and puffers, small gobies and blennies, firefish, tiny cardinals, pipefish, seahorses, and all ornamental shrimp or small crabs.

They are crepuscular. A small red flashlight lets you check on feeding without spooking them.

Breeding tips

Not a home-aquarium project. They spawn pelagic eggs and the larvae go through a flatfish metamorphosis with eye migration. There are no hobbyist reports of closing the lifecycle for this species. If you see courtship in a big system, consider yourself lucky and just enjoy the behavior.

Common problems to watch for

  • Refusing food: Use live offerings first, then transition to frozen. Feed at dusk with pumps off and try partially burying the food.
  • Abrasions on the underside: Usually from rough substrate. Switch to finer sand and keep it clean.
  • Getting outcompeted: They are slow, methodical eaters. Spot-feed with tongs and consider feeding after the lights dim.
  • Parasites and skin issues: Look for flashing, excess slime, or cloudy eyes. Handle in quarantine. Flatfish can be sensitive to certain meds, so dose carefully and use reliable test kits or consult a fish-savvy vet.
  • Sand in pumps and intakes: Cover powerhead intakes with foam guards so the fish cannot get sucked in while buried nearby.
  • Jumping: They can bolt if startled at night. Keep every gap covered.

Avoid coarse sand and crushed coral. Repeated micro-abrasions lead to infections fast with bottom dwellers like this.

If you need to target-feed, train them to a feeding stick. Start with a live shrimp on the end, then swap to a thawed mysis bundle once they make the connection.

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